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Beat Street Trauma 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 600'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Tony Calderboner, 2008
Page Views: 69
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 19, 2007

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  • Route Description 

    Pitch 1: (200’) Climb a slab to a belay stance with 1.5” cracks.
    Pitch 2: (200’) Climb a slab to a 2-bolt station. 1” cams may be helpful.
    Pitch 3: (200’) Climb a slab to a 2-bolt station. 0.4” & 3.5” cams may be helpful.

    Protection 

    I recommend 8 cams (0.4”-3.5”), 8 nuts (0.3”-1”), 32 carabiners & 12 runners (24”).

    Descent 

    Rappel 200’ to a 2-bolt/chain station on Beatstreet Trauma.
    Rappel 100’ to a 2-bolt/chain station on Left of Fauna.
    Rappel 100’ to a 2-bolt/chain station on Left of Fauna.
    Rappel 100’ to the ground.

    History 

    Arie Leeflang bolted this on lead, by hand, rope-solo in 2007.


    Comments on Beat Street Trauma Add Comment
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    By Arie
    From: Smog Lake City, Utah
    Nov 20, 2007

    This is a really fun moderate. A little more beta:

    Pitch one is probably best if mixed up with 'Amazing Grace' to the left. Otherwise, climb a slabby crack to gritty runnel and slab to belay ledge (~120'- 5.5?).

    Pitch two climbs the large west facing corner that arches near its top, exit out the top (fun) and aim slightly right on easy but runout rock (5.5) to alcove belay (195')- 2 bolt belay.

    Pitch three heads back out left, following features to a hard to see bolt (~30'). Continue up to a right trending trough (#4 friend or equiv.). Two more bolts finish off an excellent slab (5.7-5.8). Either exit above into broken rock or head right onto the final slab (5.7-5.8, 2 more bolts) and a 2 bolt belay (195'). TCU's or general equivalent are helpful in a couple of spots. Again a great moderate, but a couple of (easy) PG-13/R sections.

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