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Beastie Boys 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b PG13 [details]
FA: Kennan Harvey and Jonathan Knight, 1997?
Page Views: 5,680
Submitted By: jonathan knight on Aug 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Traversing across the upper slab on Beastie Boys. ...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


Start up a ramp then switch left to a jagged, chossy weakness that leads to a ledge 30 feet above. A bolt protected boulder problem off the right side of the ledge accessing the bottom of a right facing corner that quickly turns into an steep, underclinging, flake traverse. From the dead end of the flake, switch to the flake above and continue to traverse to the point where the undercling offsets to a small ledge. A bolt protected bulge looms above followed by another that finishes on a good size foot ledge. It could end here but noooo. Off the left end of the ledge, traverse past a bolt to gain the huecos in the bottom of a right facing corner that is shared with the Nostrum. At the top of the corner, the Nostrum goes right and Beastie Boys ends left with a mantel.


This route starts from a scrubby little alcove on top of about a 150 feet of diagonal scambling on the west wall of the Green A. Same as for the Butterfield Route, but head right up the ramp/corner to begin.


3 bolts, 2 fixed nuts, about 10 other pieces are needed so bring doubles from 1/2" to 2". Long slings are necessary. 2 bolt anchor with the dreaded rap hangers.

Photos of Beastie Boys Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulled second fixed nut during fall. :)
BETA PHOTO: Pulled second fixed nut during fall. :)
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing through the first under cling traverse se...
Climbing through the first under cling traverse se...

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By bheller
From: SL UT
Oct 4, 2008

This route is really amazing. It links up so many improbable features to create a mega route. It has to be at the forefront of LCC's proudest lines- highly technical through one sequence, delicate and scary through another, explosivley powerful through another; it climbs like multiple 5.12 routes condensed into one. It sort of reminds me of a much harder version of Mother of Pearl. Protection is adequate, but not obvious nor straight-forward, and the exposure on the overhanging headwall is awesome! A full 70 meter rope puts you right back down at the scrubby belay ledge. Consider carefully soloing a steep 5.9 choss variant at the start (about 20 feet to the right of the Butterfield route) up to the ledge where you clip the first (thank God!) bolt. Put aside all your other projects and climb this route- more traffic will knock off the weathered rock-its as good as rock climbing gets!
By christ
Oct 12, 2008

By far one of the best routes in Utah.
By jonathan knight
Oct 13, 2008

Brad, there seems to be some confusion as to how it starts off the ledge, so I edited the location info, slightly. I think that the 5.9 variant you mention is the standard start, but I usually put in a piece or two. Nice job on the send!
By Scott McLeod
Nov 1, 2008

Harddd but brilliant(at least for us mortals). one of the most stellar lines around, if nothing else for its improbability. You get it all: power, delicacy, spook-factor. Get to it soon, it seems to be deteriorating bit by bit...
By Gargano
From: Oakland, CA
Dec 9, 2014

By dnaiscool
May 31, 2015

FANTASTIC FILM!! Go Shingo!! Way to push the commitment meter up into the stratosphere Peter. Climbing is deeply personal, and Peter's humility is obvious. He has chosen to do routes in a specific style, but he makes no claim about how his was a better ascent, nor does he return to the route and remove the bolts simply because he was able to send the route without them. This has, unfortunately, occurred many times in the recent history of climbing, and Peter -again- elevates himself by keeping his style of ascent to himself.

PS Kudos to the drone photography...this stuff is remarkable, and I think it is THE BEST way to film climbing. But, the noise has to be just a bit unnerving to the climber, right?
By Zak123
Jun 2, 2017

The second fixed nut is no more. A good fall plucked it from wall and sent me on quite a ride. The good news is now you can just climb through that section without clipping anything saving a bit of energy.

Happy climbing.

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