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1st Meat Wall
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Beaster Sunday 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Garhart and Garman Spring 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 633
Submitted By: Alex Garhart on May 29, 2012

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Note the giant cams

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


2 pitch adventure route that summits a prominent pillar in the central part of the wall.

Pitch 1, 5.10, 80 ft) Climb a narrowing squeeze chimney for~ 20ft until you can't fit anymore and exit on some awkward moves (crux) with licheny feet to gain a #6 camalot splitter that has an inner crack that takes 4" gear. Continue past the splitter into flared, poddy hands and a 2 bolt anchor with a good stance.

Pitch 2, 5.8, 50 ft) From the belay walk to the back of the giant chimney passing over a deep hole. Chimney up in the back with good gear passing a cool window to some steeper chimney moves above (crux). Top out on hand jams and a mantle to a 2 bolt anchor and great views. Fun pitch, feels like canyoneering.


Couple minutes left of where the new approach trail meets the cliff.


Pitch 1) We used #9 and #12 Valley Giants for the squeeze but Big bros would also work. Singles from #3-#6 camalot.
Pitch 2) Singles from C3's to wide hands. Long slings.
2 single rope raps.

Photos of Beaster Sunday Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The pillar routes
BETA PHOTO: The pillar routes

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