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Beaster Sunday 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Garhart and Garman Spring 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 723
Submitted By: Alex Garhart on May 29, 2012

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Note the giant cams

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

2 pitch adventure route that summits a prominent pillar in the central part of the wall.

Pitch 1, 5.10, 80 ft) Climb a narrowing squeeze chimney for~ 20ft until you can't fit anymore and exit on some awkward moves (crux) with licheny feet to gain a #6 camalot splitter that has an inner crack that takes 4" gear. Continue past the splitter into flared, poddy hands and a 2 bolt anchor with a good stance.

Pitch 2, 5.8, 50 ft) From the belay walk to the back of the giant chimney passing over a deep hole. Chimney up in the back with good gear passing a cool window to some steeper chimney moves above (crux). Top out on hand jams and a mantle to a 2 bolt anchor and great views. Fun pitch, feels like canyoneering.

Location 

Couple minutes left of where the new approach trail meets the cliff.

Protection 

Pitch 1) We used #9 and #12 Valley Giants for the squeeze but Big bros would also work. Singles from #3-#6 camalot.
Pitch 2) Singles from C3's to wide hands. Long slings.
2 single rope raps.


Photos of Beaster Sunday Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The pillar routes
BETA PHOTO: The pillar routes

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