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Beast of No Nation
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.4 from 8
votes
Routes in Upper Spire
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Arete Route T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Beast of No Nation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Burnt Offerings T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cabin Fever S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Char Broiled T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Crispy Critters TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Desperado (Roof Variation) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dot to Dot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fear of Flying T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gingerbread T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Granite Zeppelin A0 |
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Harrison Direct Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Holy Smoke T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jugs Revisited T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lesbian Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Necklace Traverse "direct" T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Robert's Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Smokehouse Brown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Steppin' Stone T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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T-Bone S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Thanksgiving T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Up for Grabs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Aidan Maguire |
| Page Views: | 1,605 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Aidan Maguire on Oct 21, 2011 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Road Closure - Caldor Fire and Dirt road winter closures
Details
While climbing is open, Wrights Lake Road is within the Caldor Fire closure: fs.usda.gov/eldorado/. Plan to approach from Hwy 50. In addition, Eldorado National Forest closes dirt roads during wet conditions between November and May. The main office number 530-622-5061 might help you get current conditions, which aren't always updated on the website. fs.usda.gov/detail/eldorado… When the road is closed, simply park on a pullout of Wrights Lake Road and walk the extra mile.
Beast Of No Nation (aka The Aswad Memorial Buttress)
Start up the 5.9 corner crack with a bouldery layback. Climb this enjoyable but straight forward open corner to a big ledge.
Alternatively, climb left of the corner using the face protecting with gear about the same grade.
The business starts here: Begin up an overhanging and powerful knobby wall (11b) to a rest. From here head straight up more knobs to gain the seam which is climbed to the top. Figuring out the seam is the crux (11d) but the exit moves are also difficult. Easy to set up as a TR.
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