REI Community
Oak Creek Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Southern Revival" South Face of Oak Creek Spire T 
Beast Master T 
La Quinta T 
North Face/West Crack T 
Poquito Bandito T 

Beast Master 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 135'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Z. Harrison, J.Snyder
New Route: Yes
Season: Sun AM, Shade in PM
Page Views: 2,824
Submitted By: J. Snyder on Jan 26, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Low on the pitch

Description 

Have you climbed 'Southern Revival' and felt a bit...unsatisfied? This 2 bolt variation might leave you feeling a bit less weak. Clip the last bolt on the 1st pitch and move left past bolt to a belay. Now tip your head back and eye the next 39 meters carefully. Snort some 'roids and prepare to get raw ripped.

Move left on munge past a bolt and techy tick-tack through the tips crack. Sport layback to a rest and hope you didn't blow all your .5's yet...

More sports laybacking up through steep thin hands to the change in crack orientation and pretend to rest. Gather your wits for the final slightly tricky and exposed "5.10c Boulder Problem".

Barf up your protein shake onto the Tanning Salon. Perch out left to clip anchor.

You are now a Beast Master! For extra credit, continue up the rest of 'Southern Revival'. Invent more stars!

Location 

South Face of Oak Creek Spire. Left of 'Southern Revival'.

Protection 

Gear:
2x #00 C3 - #.3 C4
3x #.4 C4 and #.75 C4
5x #.5 C4
2x #1 C4

Bonus cams for first encounter:
2x #2 C4
1x #.3C4- #1 C4
80m Rope Mandatory for lower!!!


Photos of Beast Master Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cuz Zach sending
Cuz Zach sending
Rock Climbing Photo: FA Party on Summit of OCS after success on 'Beast ...
FA Party on Summit of OCS after success on 'Beast ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Racking up for 'Beast Master'. OCS. 2016
Racking up for 'Beast Master'. OCS. 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff at the belay on the lower
Jeff at the belay on the lower
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff on the FA
Jeff on the FA

Comments on Beast Master Add Comment
Show which comments
By Zach Harrison
Jan 26, 2016
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Simply amazing all time classic! Hands down the best pitch I have been fortunate enough to climb on the beloved Sand.
By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Jan 27, 2016

Spectacular. A two year process from start to finish, possible only because our forearms are now at least 8 inches bigger. Ill buy Sedona's biggest steak for the next party that goes up this thing.
By Loganator
From: blue van, on the highway to no
Feb 17, 2016

Its tempting to drive down from the rainy PNW just for the splitter. Don't tempt us with steak too!
By Matt S
Feb 25, 2016

all steaks go to Laura, for the second ascent onsite.
or that green stuff she eats.
By Josh Janes
General Admin
Mar 1, 2016

When going to climb Southern Revival, should one climb this or the original pitch? If one climbs this, can one get away without #4 Camalots on the route?
By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Mar 1, 2016

Hey Josh,
The Beast Master pitch is a variation of the 2nd and 3rd pitch of S.Revival and climbs only 20 or so feet to the left. It is well worth the detour! Its been very warm out there so try to make the trip on a cooler day if possible!

Although you will need to add bonus gear to the rack for this pitch you will most certainly want to bring the #4's along also! They are very useful on the 1st pitch and for the parking lot pitch up higher once you rejoin with S.Revival on the Tanning Salon.

But I suppose if you decide neah on the 4s... your man-parts will suffice for gear in the crack!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About