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Animal World
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Animal Instinct S 
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Animation aka Jaycene's Dance S 
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Balance, The T,S 
Beast Food Left S 
Beast Food Right S 
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Dihedral T,TR 
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Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) T,S 
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Global Gorilla S 
Gull Whackers T 
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Is It Ready Yet...Moe S 
Isn't Life Strange S 
Joint Venture S 
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We Don't Do Crack T 
Wine and Roses T 

Beast Food Left 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Dan Hare & Rob Stanley, 1997
Season: year round
Page Views: 1,137
Submitted By: Chris Archer on Nov 17, 2008

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Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Either climb Joint Venture (sport) or the corner to its left (trad) to a left-angling crack/groove protected by 5 bolts. Climb the crack directly clipping the bolts out right.

Protection 

All sport (10 bolts) if approaching via Joint Venture; small rack of stoppers and cams to 3".


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By Mark Rolofson
Nov 13, 2016
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

A great pitch with a technical finger jam to undercling/ lieback crux that has shut down some pretty honed climbers. I first redpointed this climb in 2008 & have repeated it almost every year since. It never feels easy. I always do it as a sport climb starting on Joint Venture for 6 bolts. Below 7th bolt on Joint Venture, step left around the arete. Unless you clip this bolt, you are very run-out, but it's easy, & there is a huge jug around the arete to pull up & clip bolt at the start of the difficulties on Beast Food. If you do clip 7th bolt on JA, you'll have to clip out of it.

Ascending this left-leaning, flared groove begins with a good lieback hold. The crux is at 8th bolt. With a long Petzl draw on 9th bolt, you can clip it before executing the crux. It isn't over until you have the jugs above the anchor. The final moves above the last bolt are hard & use a wide hand jam.

There are a total of 10 bolts /2 Fixe rings. There are 4 bolt (not 5) along the left-leaning groove that Beast Food ascends.