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The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alcove Cracks T 
AP Treat T 
Beast 666 T 
Broken Bones (aka Piledriver) S 
Browns Fist T 
Cerberus T 
Effigy T 
Energy Crisis T 
Lower Refuse T 
Maid in the Shade T 
On Crack T 
Reincarnation (aid), aka 0.6 (free) T 
Welton's Corner  T 
Whack-A-Mole T 
Wild T 
Wildabeast T 
Unsorted Routes:

Beast 666 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: . ffa jim dunn
Page Views: 1,181
Submitted By: john strand on Apr 6, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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If you are doing the 5.10 cracks under this, you may as well fail on this! After the midpoint anchor, climb a hard stemming groove thing. Then climb a hard sideways wide crack.


Up above the twin finger cracks. You'll see it.


Good gear some fixed. Take some wide. Should have a fixed anchor, if you get to it.

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By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Apr 7, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The Beast is such a classic route, quite reminiscent of chimneying out West.

The anchor, though, is messed up. At the end of the crack, we had to traverse about fifteen feet left across a vertical garden to reacher the Cerberus anchor. That's all we could find up there. This would be a candidate for a (gasp!) new bolted anchor just up and right of the end of the chimney.
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Apr 7, 2010

FA. Paul Ross ,George Myers 1972. FFA first pitch.James Dunn 1977
By john strand
From: southern colo
Apr 7, 2010

Damn it, i knew as soon as I did this that Meyer was on the f/a. Sorry
By Erik Eisele
Apr 21, 2010

No need to add an anchor to the Beast, just use the bolted anchor on the first pitch of Recompense. Above the chimney are a couple of manky pins — after backing them up, step right onto the slab and climb the groove. It's probably 5.7 or 5.8 to the anchor. It could use some cleaning but the climbing isn't bad. From there you need two ropes to rappel; have your second tag up the rap line.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Apr 21, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I'm surprised it took this long for someone to chime in suggesting that The Beast doesn't need an anchor. Erik, how far do you head up the groove before you get to the Recompense anchor?
By Erik Eisele
Apr 21, 2010

It's probably 30 or 40 feet of climbing beyond where you would cut left to reach the Cerberus anchor. You can get a couple pieces of gear. It's a bit exciting covered with lichen, but if it was clean it'd be fine.

A well-stocked normal rack plus one number six Camalot or Friend is perfect, by the way — you don't need any other big gear because the crack in the back of the chimney takes nuts and small cams.
By hasan Adil
From: portland,me
Jun 9, 2012

"you may as well fail on this!" makes no sense in a route description. 1) It's not that hard 2) It's pretty well protected 3) That's an opinion not a fact.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 9, 2012

My description was relating to the initial 5.10 cracks. May as well try the 5.11 while your there. I would say that the climbing above the anchor is pretty hard compared to the start.
By M Bageant
From: Cambridge, MA
Jun 13, 2016

My party bailed from the tat anchor on the Beast Flake this past weekend due to rain and landed right at the start of the Beast 666. We spent the afternoon working on the left finger crack up to the anchor, since it was totally sheltered from the rain. Way harder than it looks (hint: footwork!) and fun if you're in the area! It started seeping pretty bad as the rain soaked into the rocks, though.

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