REI Community
South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
3rd Rail, The T 
Aging Fruits T 
Bears in Heat T 
Bladerunner T 
Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 
Blownout T 
Blownout Direct T 
Bluebird T 
Borderline T 
Cloud Nine T 
Couchmaster T 
Crazy Horse T 
Cruisin' T 
Dod's Jam P1 T 
Excalibur T 
Fall Guy S 
Fear of Flying T 
Flying Dutchman T 
Flying Swallow T 
Free for All T 
Free For All, Direct T 
Free for Some T 
Fresh Squeeze T 
Icy Treats T 
Jensen's ridge T 
Jill's Thrill T 
Left Gull T 
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack T 
Little Wing T 
Local Access Only  T 
Lost Warriors T 
Norseman, The S 
Old Warriors Never Die S 
Pipeline T 
Reasonable Richard T 
Rhythm Method S 
Right Gull T 
Rise Up T 
Rock Police T 
Seagull T 
Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T 
South East Corner T 
Spring Fever T 
Stone Rodeo S 
Sufficiently Breathless T 
Tenacee Stemming T 
Wild Turkeys T 
Windsurfer T 
Windwalker T 
Winter Delight T 
Young Warriors T 

Bears in Heat 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Summer 1985 Mark Cartier and Darryl Nakahira
Page Views: 67
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Aug 23, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Bears in Heat offers a little bit of everything (and it was just cleaned fairly well!) The first pitch follows a zig-zagging crack that forces you to be creative, lie-backing, high-stepping, etc. The pitch takes a lot of smaller gear (mainly cams). The second pitch is BEAUTIFUL and begins with the amazing "bear hug," which eventually gives way to a brilliant just-off-hands-crack (too small at the start and too wide at the top!) From the anchors at the top of the crack keep going by stepping right into the dihedral of Flying Dutchman and finishing at the large grassy ledges. Pitch one is roughly 11b/c and pitch two is roughly 11a. A fantastic route, especially when it sees more traffic. Get on it.


The route begins the same as for Flying Dutchman (past three pitons). From the third, step left and into the zig-zagging crack system. There is an anchor set up where the route begins after the initial movement left. It is just right of the second tunnel.


Full set of stoppers. Cams doubled/tripled from Metolius #1 to Metolius #4. Singles from #5 - #9.

Comments on Bears in Heat Add Comment
Show which comments
By Wolfdog
Aug 25, 2011

This climb is full value.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About