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The Canal Zone
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Aretnophobia S 
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Bear's Choice S 
Bear's Choice Easy Variation S 
Beasto S 
Box of Rain S 
Buckets of Rain S 
Cut Loose S 
Dirt Trek T 
Gondolier Arete S 
Holiday Road S 
Ivy League S 
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Lame Line T 
Levada S 
Made In The Shade S 
Panama Red S 
Ridin' the Moon Buggy  T 
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Route Canal T 
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Whopper, The S 

Bear's Choice 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kirk Miller, Justin Winger
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 6,732
Submitted By: Kirk Miller on Aug 16, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (190)
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At the roof.

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  • Description 

    The roof, the roof, the roof is on fire....
    If you make Bear's Choice and pull for the left side, you'll be rewarded with a tricky .10 roof crux. Bail right and finish on Box of Rain for an easier alternative.
    Take care to get clipped from the rail before attempting the crux. If you fall from the rail before you're clipped, you'll hit the slab below and likely break your ankle.


    This is left of Box of Rain, it shares a start with Cut Loose.


    8 bolts to chains.

    Photos of Bear's Choice Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Crux on Bear's Choice.
    Crux on Bear's Choice.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Simon above the roof.  Photo by Myong Moon.
    Simon above the roof. Photo by Myong Moon.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bear's Choice.
    Bear's Choice.

    Comments on Bear's Choice Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 12, 2016
    By Darren Mabe
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    Aug 17, 2009

    Kirk, Kirk, Kirk is on fire!!
    By Tom R
    From: Denver, CO
    Aug 19, 2009

    I've been trying to "climb this crag out". But every time I turn around, Kirk adds another route. I'll be up there tomorrow to check out Bear's Choice. Canal Zone has shaped up to be a great crag for moderates.
    By Doug Redosh
    From: Golden, CO
    Sep 16, 2009

    It is very easy to bail out right to the 5.8 climb at the overhang, therefore it seemed a bit contrived. Otherwise, a nice route. Good movement above the hang as well, and the lower moves off the ground felt 9/10ish.
    By Dan Stackhouse
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Sep 18, 2009
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    This route was a fun problem my first lead. I fell three times on the roof, then Jesse Reeves told me how to do it, and then it wasn't bad. Got a redpoint lead. Used a sideways crimper past the chalky triangle to pull myself over the roof. Jesse Reeves is a badass.
    By Dave Clark 5.10
    From: Golden, CO
    Nov 23, 2009
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Good route for those pushing their limit at 5.10. Well-protected with options at roof from 10b on left to 8+ on right. Still challenging above roof. Kudos to Canal Zone, Kirk.
    By mikejohnson1 Johnson
    From: Essex Junction, VT
    May 7, 2010

    You can use the first few bolts of this route to skip the crux of box of rain, making for a nice 5.7. Just clip the first 5 bolts and move right. Regardless of which route you choose, bring a long draw (or put two draws together) for the bolt before the roof. This reduces rope drag a lot.
    By Robert Buswold
    From: Northglenn, CO
    Sep 6, 2011
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    This is a fun route, but the roof itself didn't feel like the crux for me. Anyone else think the face after the roof was a bit harder?
    By nick patton
    May 15, 2013

    Really fun climb with great holds. I agree, Robert, that the face after the roof was a little harder but can't wait to climb it again.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Jun 18, 2014

    In October 2013, Dale Haas and I replaced the hardware at the anchor with SS quicklinks and SS rings. The hardware was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA)( They appreciate your support.
    By Theodore Morrow
    From: Golden, Co
    Feb 18, 2016
    rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

    The crux is definitely not the roof, it's pulling out over it and getting your feet up, fun route for sure. Can easily top rope it by climbing the 5.8 next to it.
    By L Kap
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 12, 2016

    Word to the non-burly - getting over the roof was definitely a hard crux for me at 5'7" with short legs and most of my weight in my lower half. My technique is pretty good, but I fell off the crux 5 or 6 times, trying every hand and left foot placement I could find. I finally had to pull on some bullshit nubbin with my right hand to rock up onto the high right foot and stand up. I'll try it again to see if I missed something, but this was MUCH harder for me than Lambada. Past the roof is balancy, thin, and airy but not stout.

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