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Bear Necessities 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on Sep 28, 2014

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Following P2 of Bear Necessities.

Description 

Great face climbing, similar to Freudian Slip (on Big Slide) but without the long approach.

P1: Mantel a ledge, then go up a right-rising seam. At its top, go straight up to a fixed anchor. 5.9, 100'

P2: Go straight up great holds to a narrow ledge with another fixed anchor. 5.10a, 100'

P3: Step left from the anchor, the go straight up steep friction to where the angle eases. Runout up and left to an often-dirty crack; climb this (and the face to the right to avoid the dirt) to a sloped ledge with a fixed anchor. 5.8, 100'

Descent: Rappel the route with a single 60m rope. Watch the top rappel, as it just makes it to the anchor.

Location 

On the slab left of the large chimney and debris cone. Recent rockfall from right of this route has devastated the area below this route.

Protection 

Sparse rack to 1.5". Most of the pitches are bolted; once you know the route, it can be climbed with just draws.


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