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Bear Mountain Slab

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Bear Bones T 
Dikes To Watch Out For T 
Grin and Bear It T 
Path of Totality T 
Uninvited, The T,S 

Bear Mountain Slab Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: john strand on Jul 12, 2008
Forecast:
This Afternoon

87° | 62°
Monday

86° | 61°
Tuesday

84° | 61°
Wednesday

80° | 59°
Thursday

69° | 46°
Friday

62° | 43°
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BETA PHOTO: Bear Mt from the Kanc, Sept. 2013

Description 

A good sized cliff with a lot mystery. South facing with some awesome rock and some rockfall areas.Easily seen from tha Kanc but a little hard to get to.I have yet to even FIND some climbs! The described routes are easy to find though.

Getting There 

Just west from Rainbow/Crack In The Woods on the north side of the river. Park at a Forest Service road and cross the river (grade 2-3). Straight in and up a steep hill to big boulders- the cliff is another 10 minutes.

mmm? The best "straight in" approach to Bear Mt is actually a fair distance West of the "Webster"-river-crossing for Crack-in-the-Woods and Rainbow.

I'd think a better approach is to park at the Upper Falls ("Rocky Gorge") parking, cross the river on the footbridge, and follow the "tourist" trail up and around right (past the South end of the pond) and pick up the Nam-----cook Ski/Bike trail. Follow this South/East a short distance until it splits, take the left fork for the "upper path". Up an easy grade, then the trail swings right (careful not to follow an old logging road which goes "straight" here) and levels off. Watch for a 20 ft high boulder on the left, then another 15-20 foot-er on the right [photo]; leave the trail at the 2nd boulder with a 90-degree left-hand turn and bushwhack to the cliff. (Somewhere I have the exact compass bearing and will add it to this description.) If the trail starts to descend fairly consistently, you've past the boulder(s).
Also, if you are lucky, when you get close to the cliff you may "hit" a monstrous boulder with a fabulous roof crack.
As for actually finding the climbs...I have to agree with John, the base is a not-seen-from-the-road jumble of steep slopes with years of leaves, sometimes wet and mossy slab and generally quite an "adventure". R Hall

Climbing Season

For the WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) area.

Weather station 6.5 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Bear Mountain Slab
Rock Climbing Photo: Halfway through the first pitch.

Path of Totality 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Bear Mountain Slab
A nice, sustained route up the center of the striking, diamond-shaped slab. While no single move is particularly hard, the climb is constantly engaging and always keeps you guessing.Pitch 1: Follow the line of bolts up the steepening slab, crossing "Grin and Bear It" halfway up the pitch. 13 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. 5.9, 35m.Pitch 2: Traverse left from the anchor to gain the arching bolt line. Interesting features and lots of back-and-forth climbing in a great position make for ...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Photos of Bear Mountain Slab Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Close-Up Photo
BETA PHOTO: Close-Up Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mid-Section- Blow Up
BETA PHOTO: Mid-Section- Blow Up
Rock Climbing Photo: 1 of 3 Tele-photo: Bottom of Rt Side Bear Mt
BETA PHOTO: 1 of 3 Tele-photo: Bottom of Rt Side Bear Mt
Rock Climbing Photo: #2 of 3 Tele-photo:Middle Rt Side Bear Mt
BETA PHOTO: #2 of 3 Tele-photo:Middle Rt Side Bear Mt
Rock Climbing Photo: #3 of 3 Tele-photo: Top of right-side Bear Mt
BETA PHOTO: #3 of 3 Tele-photo: Top of right-side Bear Mt
Rock Climbing Photo: "Turn-Off" Boulders
BETA PHOTO: "Turn-Off" Boulders

Comments on Bear Mountain Slab Add Comment
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By Grant Simmons
Aug 29, 2017
To add to the above approach description from Rocky Gorge:

Hike the Nanamocomuck Ski Trail for 0.5 miles to a well-marked junction just uphill from a bridge. Turn left onto the Wenunchus Ski Trail and follow for approximately 5 minutes (after a couple of minutes, the ski trail turns to the remnants of a skidder trail from the logging operation) until you see the boulders.

At the moment, there is a rough trail that is generally easy to follow from the ski trail to the base of the cliff, but who knows how long that will last.

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