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Bear Lake Trailheads

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Bear Lake and Bear's Den 
Chaos Canyon 
Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorge 
Odessa Gorge 

Bear Lake Trailheads Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 9,450'
Location: 40.31201, -105.64578 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 42,807
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Feb 4, 2015
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The second of 2 rock bands encountered on the Hour...

Description 

From the Bear Lake trailheads, you can access plenty of snow, ice, and mixed climbs that range from cragging to full day adventures. One advantage of this area is the abundant parking in the non-summer months. Additionally, the popularity of snowshoeing tends to stamp down at least the first few miles of the approaches here.

This is a section that includes:

Chaos Canyon
- Hallett Peak - South Side
- Chaos Creek
Bear Lake & vicinity
- Bear Lake Ice
- Bear's Den
Tyndall Gorge/Emerald Lake
- Emerald Lake & vicinity
- Nymph Lake
- Hallett Peak
- South Face of Flattop Peak (including Dragon's Tail)
Odessa Gorge
- North Face of Flattop
- Notchtop)

Getting There 

From the Beaver Meadows entrance of RMNP, take a left shortly after passing through the ranger station and drive past Moraine Park, Glacier Basin Campground/winter parking lot, Sprague Lake, Glacier Gorge trailhead, and to Bear Lake (at the end of the road).

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.4 miles from here

64 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',26],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Bear Lake Trailheads

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Bear Lake Trailheads:
Dragon's Tail Couloir   WI2 M2     Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine   Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Flattop Mountain - S side
Chaos Couloir        Alpine, 7 pitches   Chaos Canyon : Hallett South Side
Tyndall Gully        Alpine, 800'   Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
Dragon's Tooth   M2-     Trad, Mixed, Alpine, Grade V   Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Flattop Mountain - S side
Hot Doggie   WI5     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70'   Odessa Gorge : Notchtop & vicinity
Two Dragons   M7     Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400'   Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Flattop Mountain - S side
East Couloir   WI2     Trad, Ice   Odessa Gorge : Flattop Mountain - N side
Flattop Gully        , 1000'   Odessa Gorge : Flattop Mountain - N side
Stem Corner   M5     Trad, TR, Mixed, 1 pitch, 86'   Bear Lake and Bear's Den : Bear's Den
Ole No. 2   M6+     Mixed, 1 pitch   Bear Lake and Bear's Den : Bear's Den
Englishman's Route   M5-6     Mixed, Alpine, 6 pitches, 900'   Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
The Hourglass   WI3     Trad, Ice, 600'   Odessa Gorge : Flattop Mountain - N side
Bullet   WI3+ M6+     Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 130'   Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress   M4-5     Mixed, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000'   Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
The Squid   WI5-6 M6-7     Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 140'   Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Emerald Lake & vicinity
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5   M5+     Trad, Mixed, Alpine, Grade IV   Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
Grace Falls   WI4     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'   Odessa Gorge : Notchtop & vicinity
North Face (which actually faces NE)   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600'   Odessa Gorge : Notchtop & vicinity
Enter The Dragon (aka Old Route)   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b M4     Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800'   Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Flattop Mountain - S side
Furry Thang   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a WI5 M8 PG13     Sport, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 70'   Bear Lake and Bear's Den : Bear's Den
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Bear Lake Trailheads

Featured Route For Bear Lake Trailheads
Rock Climbing Photo: Eli and Ryan Bogus checking out Grizzly.

Grizzly 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b WI5+ M10 R  Colorado : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Bear's Den
Grizzly is the furthest right bolted route currently at the Den.Climb past three bolts (crux) to pin and cam protected climbing to the final three bolts that go through the top bulge and past the often ice covered slab....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

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