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Bear Hollow Wall

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Corn On The Cobble S 
Fist Full of Dollars S 
High Planes Drifter S 
Maple Jones S 
Pale Rider S 
Unknown S 
Unknown Glue Job S 
Unknown Left Most Route S 
Unknown, 5.12 S 

Bear Hollow Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.00135, -111.39195 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,512
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: James Garrett on Jun 7, 2009  with updates from Ken Noyce
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BETA PHOTO: Mid Section of the wall, High Planes Drifter is ju...

Echo Canyon Seasonal Closure: Jan. 1 - second Saturday in April MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The north /south running little canyon just west of the Dry Wall. The exact location and GPS for the route is 41° 0'6.16"N, 111°23'31.73"W

Getting There 

The name of this little canyon where this route is located is Bear Hollow Canyon. It is 0.1 mile west of the Dry Wall and 2.5 miles East of the Pierced Nipple. Nice shaded turn off and uphill on the right 2 minutes above the firepit at the turn around.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.2 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',1],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Bear Hollow Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Bear Hollow Wall:
Maple Jones   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Fist Full of Dollars   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Unknown   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Bear Hollow Wall

Featured Route For Bear Hollow Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Is it just me or are the 11 bolts on this line a b...

High Planes Drifter 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Utah : Echo Canyon : ... : Bear Hollow Wall
This route starts up Pale Rider then breaks right at the third bolt. As with Pale Rider there is no distinct crux, though getting off the ground is probably the most difficult move. Either clip the third bolt with a long sling or unclip it after clipping the fourth bolt to prevent rope drag. You could skip the third bolt all together, but you would hit the ground if you came off close to the fourth bolt without clipping the third and it's not that the climbing is hard, but the rock is chossy ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Bear Hollow Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Main wall of Bear Hollow.
BETA PHOTO: Main wall of Bear Hollow.
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo at the base of the wall.  Thanks for all the ...
BETA PHOTO: Topo at the base of the wall. Thanks for all the ...

Comments on Bear Hollow Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By bheller
From: SL UT
Jun 23, 2009
Bear Hollow is the first canyon WEST of the dry wall, Pine Canyon is the first canyon EAST of the the dry wall. I think Garrett meant to write west. The approach directions are cyptic as well- the steep wall that hosts a number of routes (one of which is probably Maple Jones) is easily visible on your right as you look up from the mouth of the Bear Hollow. When you find the enormous redneck firepit, hike one minute up and right.
By Jeff Guest
From: Coalville, UT
Jul 1, 2009
The exact GPS Coordinates for Maple Jones using the WGS84 datum is N41°00'06.2" W111°23'31.8" This is the bottom of Maple Jones. The other coordinates in the beta are taken from Google Earth. The route is on the right wall looking up the canyon and is straight up the hill from where you cross the stream.
By Farkus
Aug 27, 2009
Ha ha heck yeah that is my redneck firepit me and my hometown buddies made. Feel free to use it cause camping up there is free.
By steve lindsay
Sep 21, 2011
The pullout for this canyon has a sign that says "Death's Rock -5"
I counted 6-7 total routes all super hard except the one farthest to the north, Maple Jones 5.9.
By James Garrett
Sep 20, 2014
The recent roadside grid bolted routes by Dan McCann and friends in this area do pose a threat to future route developers on both public and private lands. The routes themselves are pretty fun. Long strands of unpainted bright silver chain and unpainted hangers are not viewed kindly by either land managers or other climbers. Would someone please take it upon themselves to make these anchors more invisible? I know alot of cleaning and work went into these routes, which I applaud, but pre-painting the hardware would be easier than after the routes are up?

I recently talked with a Rancher in the area and he was quite concerned that I might be utilizing similar "ugly shiny silver things in the rock on his property". When we were finished, no one could even see evidence of the route being there...even from close up. He was very relieved as he drives by the Bear Hollow Wall every day. The routes I refer to are less than 20 feet from the main frontage road and are a glaring embarrassment.

Routes on the Bear Hollow Wall that I equipped years ago are truly invisible compared to these newer additions.

If the people responsible for these routes are unwilling to address this issue, i will be happy to help anyone who is interested to paint the chain and make these anchors more discreet. Just let me know, I will buy the paint!

Additionally, the bolt choice for this type of rock (conglomerate) has proved over a relatively short period of time (i.e., retrofitting efforts on the Dry Wall) to be that Glue Ins are far superior. Please consider different anchoring systems going forward. Thank you!
By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 20, 2014
I totally agree with James and his concerns with this "Clint Eastwood" wall. Highly visible, grid-bolted convenience routes that offer forgettable climbing... in a word- tasteless. You gotta ask yourself "Am I gonna paint that obnoxious hardware"? Well,are you,Punk? Like grandma said: "If you don't have the time or money to do something right the first time what makes you think you will the second time?" There is another wall developed in this style east of the dry wall as well- you cant miss it- grid bolted short easy routes right on the shoulder of the road, with shiny bolts every three feet, and chain anchors nearly within arms reach of one another. Clint would pistol whip you.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying that a few well-thought, well engineered beginner routes are in any way a bad thing...I see the excessive lack of quality as the big issue.
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 20, 2014
Climbed up here this weekend. The shiny bolts and chains are definitely eyesores - i'll try to get up there in the spring to paint them if no one beats me to it.

The routes themselves were a lot of fun and very well cleaned. I can see why a badass climber would think they are forgettable, but the beginner I was with loved them and I enjoyed them too. I also don't think the close bolting is a bad thing on low angle terrain in somewhat sketchy rock that will attract many new climbers.

It is too bad this place is such a redneck shitshow along a freeway though. Ugly as the bolts are, they are nothing compared to the trash, shell casings, campsites reminiscent of hobo camps, etc.
By Robert Whyte
From: Park City, UT
Oct 30, 2014
after seeing the comments on the website about the shine that was on the wall we went out to paint the bolts today. Thank you to whomever started the job and did the lower wall. We will get out next week to paint some other routs that we have out there as soon as were back in town. The only thing left unpainted out there are James Garret routs to the far left of the bear hollow wall.
When we started bolting out there it was extremely chossy and were unsure of how difficult the routs were going to be. Its now where i take new leaders to learn how to lead so that they can lead at their grade and maximize safety while learning to clip.
Sine showing up there, we continually take full bags of trash out of there every time we go trying to clean the place up.
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Oct 31, 2014
Hope I didn't waste your trip to Bear Hollow wall Robert. I wasn't looking for a pat on the back so I didn't say anything here on MP. Perhaps a word or two about my experience will encourage crag stewardship at other areas too.

I’d only heard about and driven past Echo Cyn before, so when I saw the comments about shiny bolts I took the bait checked the area out last week. Yeah they were like dozens of tiny mirrors in the sun for passersby, so last Saturday I spent the day putting a light coating of self etching primer (recommended to me by SLCA) to dull them up a bit. Now the bolts and anchors near the road are just visible for climbers who are looking, but passersby won’t even notice. I used several cardboard cut-outs to keep paint off of the rock as much as possible. The cardboard cut-outs are helpful to rotate through as they get wet with paint and messy.

There were 98 bolts painted, 10 sets of chains, and still had paint left in the single can (a thinner coat of paint is better). Also replaced four spinner bolts (original bolt holes were used where possible), as well as added chains to the far right route that just had faded tatter for the anchor. And I can see how glue-ins would be superior as James mentioned above.

Solid work putting up the routes! Thanks for the contribution! Can’t wait to get on some of these routes!


Rock Climbing Photo: Shiny bolt, before and after.
Shiny bolt, before and after.


Rock Climbing Photo: Making shiny anchors less noticeable
Making shiny anchors less noticeable
By Natalie Kane
Aug 18, 2017
Lost a pair of sunglasses here that I would love back. Brown and circular. Left there 8/12/2017. Please reach out to me if you find them. 763-213-4244 or nataliekane37@gmail.com.

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