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Beano Hangover 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Rick Leitner, 1997
Page Views: 81
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 17, 2003

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  • Description 

    Furthest route on the right. Starts off a nice stance in the gully. I felt like giving this a Bomb rating, but the bomb was me. First move off the deck felt like 5.10, not 5.11c as indicated in Rolofson's guide, so things should have been smooth sailing. Even clipping draws already in place, this route felt awkward and weird. Funky moves on a steep, angling roof lead to a painful jam and another awkward swim to a ledge and the anchor. I had no fun, but if you suss it out from the get-go it's probably decent.

    Protection 

    Five draws, something for the double bolt anchor, and a rope.


    Comments on Beano Hangover Add Comment
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    By Kreighton Bieger
    Aug 20, 2003

    I did not submit this route - someone perhaps mis-selected my name?

    signed,"The Real, Non 5.12 Climbing" Kreighton Bieger
    By Kreighton Bieger
    Aug 20, 2003

    Dunno Tony,

    Anyone would know that wasn't me, since I wouldn't refer to myself as "the bomb". But that's just me.

    Perhaps the cookies on your hard drive betray some latent desire you have to be me, or at least my sexy cb.com persona. It happens.
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Aug 20, 2003

    My fault, but fixed now.

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