Beam Me Up, Scotty
||Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
|Original: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Ken Trout, Dave Dunblazer, Alan Jolly and his girlfried, Kat, ~ 1983 or 84|
|Page Views: ||2,978|
|Submitted By: ||slim on Oct 1, 2005|
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Andy Donson, Beam Me Up Scotty.
This is a damn fine route on the main west face of Helen's Dome.
Locate the route "Fool's Gold
" using the directions listed for that route. Beam Me Up Scotty climbs the first half of Fool's Gold
to the base of the right-leaning, shallow dihedral. Fool's Gold
follows this dihedral to the right. Beam Me Up Scotty pulls straight up over the mini headwall on a couple crack jugs that provide gear opportunities. It then continues upwards on very nice continuous climbing. This section is bolt protected and the bolts get further apart the higher you go. They are good bolts though. There is a good 2 bolt anchor.
From the anchor, you can follow the primary two options to the top, or rap off. The two options are: a) Left hand, minor water groove, 5.7 slightly runout, b) Right hand, water groove, 5.9 R.
8 to 10 quickdraws for bolts and anchors, a light rack of stoppers to thin hands cams.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Oct 9, 2007
FIRST ASCENT (About 1982): Ken Trout, Dave Dunblazer, Alan Jolly and his girlfried, Kat. We all learned how to drill on the lead with this route.
Actually it might have been '83 or '84.
By David Kozak
Oct 18, 2011
Ken, if memory serves me correctly, there were about three or four others in on the "first ascent." Slackers like myself got a belay from Dave or Kathy after all the work was completed. I think that Paul Braun was another who participated in the party atmosphere that was Beam Me Up Scotty. I think the name was perhaps inspired by the long line of first ascensionists.