REI Community
The Oracle
Select Route:
Beak to the Future T 
Beaking In Tongues 
Fantasia T 

Beak to the Future 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A3+

Type:  Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, 700'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A3+ [details]
FA: Paul Gagner and Jeremy Aslaksen, November, 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,482
Submitted By: Jeremy Aslaksen on Nov 15, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Beak to the Future starts about 30 feet right of Beaking in Tongues.

1st pitch involves some very run-out 5.10 climbing with no pro till you can place a couple small Peckers. Continue right passing a couple bolts to belay. Rock is good.

2nd pitch passes a couple bolts to a pretty good Beak seam/small cams as I remember. Maybe some free climbing? End pitch at two bolt anchor.

Pitch 3 starts with a couple bolts and moves onto the Mud Shield crack system which is a total splitter to the end of the pitch.

Pitch 4 starts in a good crack that slowly gets wider till you hit the 5.10 squeeze crux.

Pitch 5 continues off left passing a fat crack and ends about 25 feet up the last pitch of Fantasia.

Follow Fantasia to the top.

Rap the route.


5 x #1 Peckers
20 x #2 Peckers
15 x #3 Peckers
6 x Spectres
2 x cams small to #5


Comments on Beak to the Future Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Dec 30, 2012

yeah! Sounds and looks like a very cool route, fantastic job putting that together!

The face under that side of the Oracle is the absolute best in or anywhere near the Fishers, so steep and big and featureless and cool.
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 2, 2013

I think pretty much everyone realizes that a rack calling for 40+ beaks is most likely not really A2+.

Looks awesome! Love your trip report.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Dec 20, 2016

Sounds like a good call, Andrew.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About