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Beak Beak Beak T 
Newest Industry T 

Beak Beak Beak 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 600
Submitted By: Eric Fjellanger on Jul 26, 2012

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Description 

This right-facing corner features a hard, overhanging, dirty, flaring start with a thin-hands crack at the back. Once past this the climbing eases. The original route finishes out left, but it looks to be choked with dirt, grass, and blackberry bushes, so finishing on the fun upper part of Newest Industry seems like a good move.

Location 

The prominent right-facing corner visible when looking at The Shield from the Dr. Sniff or Princely anchors.

Protection 

Gear to 2", emphasis on thin-hands gear.


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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jul 26, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

there is a pretty scary block/flake about mid way up this route that at first glance I wanted to use for gear, and then shuddered to think of it falling directly down over Japanese Gardens. After the layback start, there is a low angle section, then it starts traversing right, with the bolted slab out to your right, while you are following a slanting corner, the block is hollow behind and makes a great undercling until you look closer and it is detached but hopefully wedged there.Best to avoid it. Great route otherwise.

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