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Beacon Rock

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Beacon Rock Bouldering 
Northwest Face 
South Face 

Beacon Rock Rock Climbing 

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Location: 45.6272, -122.0207 View Map  Incorrect?
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Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: South Face of Beacon Rock

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


A lone 850’ basalt monolith that sits prominently in the Washington side of the spectacular Columbia Gorge, Beacon Rock is an obvious climbing destination for Portland climbers. Although much of the rock in the gorge is of poor quality, Beacon Rock has plenty of solid and steep lines. A handful of boulders are tucked away in the woods below.

The descent off of Beacon Rock is one of the easiest anywhere. An elaborate stainless steel "trail" of platforms and staircases is bolted to the East side of Beacon Rock which makes for an easy hike to the top for tourists, or an easy descent for climbers.

Routes are split into South face routes, and NW face routes, as per the break in the cliff (accessed via different trails), as well as following the breakdown in the NWOR guide book.

Getting There 

The easiest way to reach Beacon Rock is to take State Route 14 29 miles East from Vancouver, Washington. Alternatively, you can take I-84 East from Portland and cross The Bridge of the Gods (have some change handy, as it’s a toll bridge), and then West on SR 14 to the park.
To get to the main routes, park at the east end of the main parking lot, and there is a Climber's Info board there. The trail a couple feet to the left of it. Follow it down to the south face.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.8 miles from here

59 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',34],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Beacon Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Beacon Rock:
South East Corner   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 600'   South Face
Pioneer (Spike) Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1000'   Northwest Face
Little Wing   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   South Face
Cruisin'   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   South Face
Free for All   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   South Face
Right Gull   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 220'   South Face
Young Warriors   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   South Face
Jill's Thrill   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   South Face
Reasonable Richard   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   South Face
Free For All, Direct   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 115'   South Face
Windsurfer   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 105'   South Face
Blownout   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   South Face
Flying Dutchman   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   South Face
Winter Delight   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   South Face
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   South Face
Rise Up   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   South Face
Blood, Sweat, and Smears   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 170'   South Face
Free for Some   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   South Face
Pipeline   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   South Face
Windwalker   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   South Face
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Beacon Rock

Featured Route For Beacon Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: 'Free for All', Beacon Rock

Free For All, Direct 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Washington : Southwest Cascades : ... : South Face
Start on the left side of the pillar. Starts with good jams and gear. The crack opens up and pinches back down allowing you to sling the pillar at a couple spots. Pull onto the pillar, rest, and continue up the sustained 5.8 of FFA....[more]   Browse More Classics in Washington

Photos of Beacon Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Beacon from I-84
BETA PHOTO: Beacon from I-84
Rock Climbing Photo: The mostly forbidden north and east faces of Beaco...
BETA PHOTO: The mostly forbidden north and east faces of Beaco...
Rock Climbing Photo: Taken during the walk across on pitch 3 before the...
Taken during the walk across on pitch 3 before the...

Comments on Beacon Rock Add Comment
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By Karsten Duncan
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 23, 2006
You might also add that the east face is currently closed to climbing.

The last few years have seen a revitalization of climbing and stewardship at beacon rock. There has been extensive anchor restoration, route cleaning, and new route development in the last few years. This summer there are plans to reclaim several more once popular routes of foliage and debris.
By Jonas Salk
Aug 6, 2011
I just climbed here the other day. Cruisin, S.W. corner, Free for all. Fun climbing for sure!
By Jason Kevin
From: Munds Park, AZ
Aug 21, 2015
When we started our exploration of the area, Broughton Bluff seemed to have the most/best reviews. After climbing there for a couple of sessions we decided to check out beacon since my girlfriend/climbing partner is from the area and it serves as a multi faceted attraction. We started up the famous corner route and enjoyed the summit for the first time. We then climbed one more pitch(Flying Dutchman) before calling it a day. Hands down better than Bloughton and I recommend Beacon Rock highly if visiting this area. I'm stoked to go see more of the climbing offered there!

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