Beacon Rock Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: South Face of Beacon Rock
A lone 850 basalt monolith that sits prominently in the Washington side of the spectacular Columbia Gorge, Beacon Rock is an obvious climbing destination for Portland climbers. Although much of the rock in the gorge is of poor quality, Beacon Rock has plenty of solid and steep lines. A handful of boulders are tucked away in the woods below.
The descent off of Beacon Rock is one of the easiest anywhere. An elaborate stainless steel "trail" of platforms and staircases is bolted to the East side of Beacon Rock which makes for an easy hike to the top for tourists, or an easy descent for climbers.
Routes are split into South face routes, and NW face routes, as per the break in the cliff (accessed via different trails), as well as following the breakdown in the NWOR guide book.
The easiest way to reach Beacon Rock is to take State Route 14 29 miles East from Vancouver, Washington. Alternatively, you can take I-84 East from Portland and cross The Bridge of the Gods (have some change handy, as its a toll bridge), and then West on SR 14 to the park.
To get to the main routes, park at the east end of the main parking lot, and there is a Climber's Info board there. The trail a couple feet to the left of it. Follow it down to the south face.
Weather station 3.8 miles from here
49 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',28],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Beacon Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Beacon Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Beacon Rock:
Featured Route For Beacon Rock
Blood, Sweat, and Smears 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Washington
: Southwest Cascades
: ... : South Face
Blood, Sweat, and Smears follows a dihedral with an obvious, small triangular roof. The belay stance for the pitch is down and left from the young tree that is growing near Flying Circus. Commence up left from the belay, get some tricky gear in, pull up onto the small square ledge, and get your smear on for the next 160 feet. The crux comes about 30-40 feet up, getting up a smooth section of the dihedral and through a small roof. Up higher, you'll have to navigate around a small sapling befor...[more] Browse More Classics in Washington
BETA PHOTO: Beacon from I-84
BETA PHOTO: The mostly forbidden north and east faces of Beaco...
Taken during the walk across on pitch 3 before the...
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 23, 2006
You might also add that the east face is currently closed to climbing.
The last few years have seen a revitalization of climbing and stewardship at beacon rock. There has been extensive anchor restoration, route cleaning, and new route development in the last few years. This summer there are plans to reclaim several more once popular routes of foliage and debris.
By Jonas Salk
Aug 6, 2011
I just climbed here the other day. Cruisin, S.W. corner, Free for all. Fun climbing for sure!
By Jason Kevin
From: Sedona, Arizona
Aug 21, 2015
When we started our exploration of the area, Broughton Bluff seemed to have the most/best reviews. After climbing there for a couple of sessions we decided to check out beacon since my girlfriend/climbing partner is from the area and it serves as a multi faceted attraction. We started up the famous corner route and enjoyed the summit for the first time. We then climbed one more pitch(Flying Dutchman) before calling it a day. Hands down better than Bloughton and I recommend Beacon Rock highly if visiting this area. I'm stoked to go see more of the climbing offered there!