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Beached whale slab 
Crimpin aint easy (but it sho is fun)  
In the time of chimpanzees 
Magnetic Arete 
Magnetic Rock T 
Naturalist , The 
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Beached whale slab 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B R

   
Type:  Boulder, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B R [details]
FA: Tanner Wilson (cockfarmerfrank)
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring/fall shaded in morning
Page Views: 242
Submitted By: Cockfarmerfrank on Sep 10, 2015

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The middle of the slab

Description 

Start same as crimpin ain't easy. Grain decent crimp in left and match. High feet lead you to a big left hand throw to bad sloping crimp thing. For balance Gaston on poor sloper under your left hand. Bring left foot up to good edge and the Gaston with right hand again to decent crimp. Throw your right foot over the bulge and try to find good feet. Drop left foot and bump left hand up above your right hand to another poor crimp. Reach way out to poor sloping seem with right and compress your way up to a scary stand. At this point you have to smear with hands and feet and find your way up the tall slab. Best problem in the area so far!

Location 

Variation to crimpin ain't easy. Same corner to the left of magnetic arete.

Protection 

4+ pads. I did it with 2 trifold metolious pads but some of the dead logs that make the fall dangerous weren't covered. Suck it up and go for it!


Photos of Beached whale slab Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Compression over the bulge
Compression over the bulge
Rock Climbing Photo: Same start as crimpin ain't easy
BETA PHOTO: Same start as crimpin ain't easy

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