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Beachball Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Across From The Wave T 
Beach Blanket Bingo T 
Breaking the Law T 
Buddha Babies On the Beach T 
His Feet Smell T 
Masters of the Obvious T,TR 
Mitch Buchannon T 
Outside, It's America S 
Reach the Beach T 
Red Argyle T 
Rip's Roof T 
Rubble Without A Cause T 
Sneak-a-Peak Arete T 
Sneak-a-Peak Arete Direct Start T 
SPF 25 T 
Turtwig T 
Unknown on Far Right TR 
Unknown on Left T,TR 
Was His Name-O T,TR 
Waterfront T 

Beachball Crag Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,495'
Location: 40.623, -111.761 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,796
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jul 13, 2003
This Afternoon

49° | 36°

53° | 36°

47° | 35°

55° | 36°

59° | 41°

63° | 41°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Beachball Crag. Awesome weather. Fun route.


This short crag has a few nice moderate trad routes, a one minute approach, and is very shady. The crag is also very streamside and some of the routes start directly out of the water. This makes for a very good summer crag for toproping or trad climbing.

Getting There 

Beachball Crag is on the right side of the road a mile and a half up the canyon. It is shortly after Dogwood Crag, and just before the roadside bouldering on the Wave Wall. There is a pullout on the right just past the Ledgemere Picnic Area, and you can cross the stream easily to get to the base of the routes. Walkoff is possible on both sides of the crag.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.3 miles from here

20 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Beachball Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Beachball Crag:
Masters of the Obvious   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Rubble Without A Cause   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Beachball Crag

Featured Route For Beachball Crag
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the crux

His Feet Smell 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Beachball Crag
His Feet Smell climbs the face 20 feet right of the gully. It climbs the cracked face to the roof and pops it right at the center. It has a reachy crux, and is worth stopping at Beachball to climb....[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Comments on Beachball Crag Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 12, 2004
There was a new route on the Crag next to (left of) the 5.10 and 5.8, kinda up the gully. Can't remember the names of the climbs. Someone chopped the bolts on it. Why would they do this? It was a face, with no possible natural pro. I thought it was a fun albeit easy route. Also there were chains for the 5.10 that goes over the little roof, they are gone as well. What gives? I understand maybe the chains for the 5.10 weren't supposed to be there or something. But why chop all the bolts off of such a fun little route? It was a totally legitimate route, and the bolts were placed well, I don't understand. Does anyone know about this?
By michael ferraro
Sep 29, 2009
A couple friends and I have recently been trying to clean this area up.
A few weeks ago we took up a wench and pulled down the large tree that had fallen on Spf 25. it was a nice feeling knowing that I was the first to climb the route in several years. I also climbed the fat crack to the right of spf 25 and think I got a posible f.a. It goes at 5.9. I would like to call it The Beached Whale if I did get the f.a.
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Sep 29, 2009
"...we took up a wench and pulled down the large tree..."

That's a strong woman!
By Andrew May
From: Westminster, CO
May 21, 2011
Has anyone been up here yet this year? I'd rather not make the drive if it's still snowed in.
By Chris DeSantis
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 8, 2012
I was just up at Beachball crag and found at least three (3) top-rope anchors had been removed. Why someone would chop anchors at this crag makes absolutely no sense to me. Sure you can set trad-anchors in some places but not everyone has the gear or skill set to do that. I would think we would like to encourage climbing for all people at all levels without getting anyone injured. Besides it is all short, low grade stuff that real climbers wouldn’t bother with but it’s great for new folks or kids. I’ve personally free soloed all over the whole damn thing and have lots of trad gear, but, I have friends with small children that love the security of a top-rope and I can’t always be there to set anchors for them.

In any case, I plan to re-bolt the anchors. And while I’m usually a traditional old school hand driller, I’m bringing a Bosch for this project. If anyone can add some insight on why the anchors were removed or have any concerns or suggestions on the placement of new hangers please feel free to contact me.

By zoso
Jul 8, 2012
I applaud your transparency.
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Jul 9, 2012
Second applaud
By Brian Taylor
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 8, 2012
Any status update on the state of those new anchors? I'm planning on heading up here on Friday and am wondering if I should plan on building my own anchors or not. Thanks!
By William Kramer
From: Kemmerer, WY
Apr 5, 2015
Anchors still missing. Seems silly to me to remove them, I took my kids up there for some easy fun and gear placement lessons, didn't really plan on anchor building lessons, but made do with the webbing and cordalette we had. I really don't understand the bolt chopping war up here, seems like people just being bullies.

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