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Beach Pond

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Deadwood 
Hemlock Ledges - Top Rope Crag 
Normandy 
North Shore 
Pirate ship wall 
Pyramid Boulder 
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From MP's sister site:

Beach Pond Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.5738, -71.7854 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,322
Administrators: M Sprague, Joe M., Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dana Seaton on Sep 14, 2010
Forecast:
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Description 

A beautiful state park surrounding a large pond straddling the border of RI and CT, with a nice beginner top rope crag, bouldering ledges and a handful of eggs. The main ledge is at the southern end of the pond along with some of the bouldering, but there is also a decent bouldering area on the north side near the boat ramp and some excellent new finds to the east on the south side. Access is usually 5-15 minutes hike from the car, though some of the newer finds in the southern spots may take 30+ minutes to hike to. The rock is granitic gneiss (I think), of good texture with occasional quartz bands and large crystals.

Getting There 

Head west on RI 165/Ten Rod Rd to the CT boarder. For the top rope crags, Deadwood and other southern areas near the pond park at the smaller lot on the southern side of the road just before you drive over the pond(41.5738, -71.7854), across from the main beach lot (not maintained well so careful if in a low clearance vehicle), or alternatively at the previous gated dirt road back east away from the pond a little bit (this will take you by a couple more bouldering ledges and the trails from either spot join further in).

For some of the new areas further south from the pond, the signed Roscoe M. Dexter entrance a little further east on 165 will get you closer via the white blazed Deep Pond Tr. If you have decent ground clearance and driving skill you can usually drive in part way and save yourself ten minutes of hiking. See further clarification in the individual areas

Park at the northern boat launch for the North Shore (See directions under that section).

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 3.5 miles from here

32 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',7],['V2-3',9],['V4-5',6],['V6-7',3],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',1],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Beach Pond

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Beach Pond:
Manhandled    V3 6A     Boulder   Deadwood
Sherman Tank   V4 6B     Boulder, 1 pitch, 12'   Normandy
Sniper Games   V4+ 6B+     Boulder, 1 pitch, 13'   Normandy
Point Blank   V7 7A+     Boulder, 10'   Normandy
Work of Man   V12- 8A+ PG13     Boulder, 16'   Deadwood
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Beach Pond

Featured Route For Beach Pond
Rock Climbing Photo: Deadwood Cave with the sun lighting up the Middle ...

Work of Man V12- 8A+ PG13  Rhode Island : Beach Pond : Deadwood
Start on a pinch in the center of the cave about eye level, pull on and do some techy/burly moves through slopy crimps and pinches to the right, then make a big sideways dyno to the Manhandled crack and use it to top out. Keep those feet high too. Those lower blocks are seperate rocks...[more]   Browse More Classics in Rhode Island

Comments on Beach Pond Add Comment
Show which comments
By marctroob
May 21, 2012
I have pics of all the stuff i added that i will get up in the next few days
By Joe M.
Administrator
Nov 19, 2012
Are the Pirate Ship and Normandy areas accessed from the same parking as the North Shore area?
By Dana Seaton
Nov 20, 2012
Nope, on the RI side there is a dirt lot on the left across from the beach before you cross the pond on 165. Follow the trail south along the water. This area is pretty rustic, have fun.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Dec 24, 2012
I fixed the directions to make them a little clearer. Marc had combined the directions to both north and south spots, so I spent a couple hours wondering around on the north side from the boat launch looking for a bridge:))
By Joe M.
Administrator
Jun 23, 2014
Video of Lucy Humphrey's making the FA of Supernormal at Beach Pond

newenglandbouldering.com/news/...
By dave wave
Jun 26, 2014
Anyone have directions to Supernormal??
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 2, 2014
It is to the left of the Hand of Man cave at Deadwood, maybe a hundred feet or so, and up to the left of a break in the wall.
By dave wave
Jul 26, 2014
Thanks!

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