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Jägihorn
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Bayermann Vabreisch'n T,S 

Bayermann Vabreisch'n 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1250', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Peter Novotny, Burkhardt Kerkeling
Page Views: 243
Submitted By: Noah.J on Jun 22, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Way, way bigger than it looks in the pictures. It...

Description 

4th pitch is the crux pitch, and is very well bolted. The rest of the pitches are easier, at roughly 5.6 with a few sections of 5.8. You can easily link pitches doing the climb in 8-10 pitches instead of 12. The descent is serious, at least in the early season. The top ridge was snow covered in mid-June, and descent required an exposed downclimb/4th class walk off. We roped with running pro. An unroped fall would be potentially deadly on the descent route we took.

Location 

It's Switzerland. The route has a painted on label indicating the start. Scramble on up the scree field and climb where indicated.

Protection 

The route goes at 5c or 5c+, and seems to be bolted with a leader comfortable climbing at that level. Long runouts on terrain easier than 5.8 are the norm. Anything at 5.8 or harder is bolted to make it very safe. Bring trad gear or don't fall on the easier sections. I brought a single rack of tricams and it was helpful in rigging anchors for linking pitches as well as protecting the simul-climbed descent.


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