REI Community
(u) Red Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 
Amphetamine Grip T 
Animal Farm S 
Bay of Pigs S 
Bill's Flake T 
Breakdown in Paradise S 
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 
Commie Pinkos S 
Dances with Clams S 
Dirty Pinkos S 
Finger Puppet S 
Fingers of Fate T 
Flex T 
Gulag Archipelago S 
Havana T 
I Almost Died T 
Lets Face It S 
Moscow T 
Orgasmophoria S 
Papillion S 
Peking T 
Phantasmagoria S 
Pop Art S 
Ride The Lightning S 
Sole Survivor S 
Straight Outta' Peking S 
Super Slab T 
Titanium Jag T 

Bay of Pigs 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ted Stahl, Jeff Frizzell, Jim Ablao, '03
Page Views: 1,177
Submitted By: Jeff Hebert on May 29, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Pull through some traverse moves on good holds to the first bolt, then enjoy technical climbing on edges and pockets for about 60 feet up to a roof. Massive jugs and an easy pull await you. Run it out above the roof on the right to the last bolt and another move before the first pitch anchor. The first pitch gets a 5.10c rating.

The second pitch goes at 5.10d and brings you up to the top of the wall.


Left end of the Red Wall, just right of the short wall containing Dances with Clams


Pitch 1 - 12 bolts
Pitch 2 - 13 bolts

Comments on Bay of Pigs Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Hebert
From: Seattle, WA
May 29, 2012

I only climbed the first pitch and was just barely able to stretch a 60m rope to the ground. Another group went up the second pitch ahead of us and said it was phenomenal.
By richard magill
Jun 17, 2012

super fun
By Drederek
Oct 4, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I'm not sure why this would get an R rating, nothing too scary here.
By pdxuller
Oct 21, 2013

I don't understand why this is rated as 4 stars in the Alan Watts guide. The rock quality on the second pitch is terrible and the movement is less than intuitive. Pebbles are everywhere and many sections have rock that you can just flake off the wall with minimal force. Both belays are hanging belays.

The R rating is due to the clipping position on bolt #2 on the second pitch, in which a fall would make you deck on the large ledge to the right of the belay anchors. This section just got slightly more difficult this weekend when the only jug broke off (hand for first clip, foot for second).

I'd do the first pitch again, but if I wanted to top out Red Wall I'd do Orgasmagoria, which is a far superior multi.
By Sinclair
Mar 28, 2016

Climbed the first pitch and tried rapping with a 60m rope. Maybe my rope is short, but the ends were about 15' off the ground. Use a 70m to be safe.
By Capple
May 6, 2016

Amazing first pitch. Would recommend a helmet for your belayer due to loose bits at the top. Look forward to getting on the second pitch at some point.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About