REI Community
Bavarian Wall and The Far Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Road to No Where T 
Bavarian Tower T 
Chubby Hubby S 
Chunky Monkey S 
Dave's Route T 
My Way or the Ha Way T 
Pigs in Mud T 
Tuna Can S 
Unknown 10c S 
West Crack  T 

Bavarian Tower 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Brian "BK" Ketron 2001
Page Views: 668
Submitted By: Unassigned User on Mar 23, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Below the crux crack section on pitch 3.

Description 

An under appreciated classic. A great adventure over four varied pitches of crack and face climbing.

Location 

Starts up a crack protected with 4 gold bolts. This crack was originally filled with loose rock and debris but has cleaned up surprisingly well. Trend right at the start of the second pitch, avoiding the grey painted hangers on Chubby Hubby.
Alternatively take the Chubby Hubby dihedral left for an awesome 35 meter 10D pitch and lower back to the ground.

Description 

An under appreciated classic. A great adventure over four varied pitches of crack and face climbing.

Protection 

1-2 set of cams. At least 1, but maybe you'd like 2, #4's for the final pitch. 2 ropes to get down.

Location 

Starts up a crack protected with 4 gold bolts. This crack was originally filled with loose rock and debris but has cleaned up surprisingly well. Trend right at the start of the second pitch, avoiding the grey painted hangers on Chubby Hubby.

Protection 

1-2 set of cams. At least 1, but maybe you'd like 2, #4's for the final pitch. 2 ropes to get down.


Comments on Bavarian Tower Add Comment
Show which comments
By GhaMby Eagan
From: Heaven
Aug 4, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Great route, glad to finally get on it.
Pitch 1: 10+, Short bolted pitch, steep start with sequential crack moves, Bolted anchor
Pitch 2: 10+, 90' or so pitch of bolts, make sure to step right around arete to stay on route (grey painted bolts for Chubby Hubby going left) Bolted anchor
Pitch 3: 10+, short crack with a few hard moves, build anchor
Pitch 4: 5.9, starts up crumbly crack into fun 4" crack with plenty of faceholds to keep it easy, used a few fist jams (maybe harder if you have small hands. . .) Clips two bolts and wanders its way up the wall, 100 or so feet long.

Rap left with 2 ropes, through a rope eating tree (fortunately our rope did not tangle up in the tree on the way down. Was able to do a 2 rope rap for first rap and 1 rope rap (70m rope) for final rap, toproped a great 12a below rap!

Gear: 14 quickdraws/trad draws, doubles from Metolius blue TCU to #4bd.

Started early in July (8am) and still climbed last 2 pitches in sun.
By rickziegler Ziegler
Oct 22, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Finally did the upper pitches.
Pitch 1&2 link well with some long draws and back cleaning.
Pitch 3 is short but awesome.
Pitch 4 is fun! Probably worth bringing 2, #4s (I bumped one for ~30 ft). There's a bit of loose rock that is avoidable.
By Dave Stimson
From: Pincher Creek
May 17, 2017

There is now a bolted station at the top of pitch 3. Not necessarily the best place to belay for pitch 4, but you can now rappel the route with a single 70m rope.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About