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The Battleship
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Battlebitch T 
Original Route T 

Battlebitch 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 120', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C1 [details]
FA: P1: C.Johnson & A.Tomasi, P2: S.Peters & P.Tomasi
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 451
Submitted By: pseudalpine on Jan 22, 2015

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North Tower Approach
From the first large ledge above some grooved ramps, bear right (north) traversing a low-roofed, narrow ledge for ~100 feet to another larger ledge.
Climb up a small ledge and up some slabs to a narrow saddle at the base of a wavy Hermit shale wall.

Rock Climbing Photo:


P1: Ascend slab using horizontal ledge and small vertical cracks (5.6). Climb through several moderately-protected ledges and bulges past a small chockstone dihedral to the larger ledge that surrounds the North Tower (60 feet). Traverse around to the north side of this spacious belay ledge.

P2: Climb slightly overhanging vertical crack, under small roof, left to base of large flake. Ascend flake edge and/or offwidth to awkward flake ledge. Climb face above by hooking small lip and using shallow seams to gain small vertical finger crack (5.8+ C1). Step left to small ledge, use angling shallow seam to gain bulged edge of summit (60 feet).

Both of the pitches can be single line sling rapped.

 

Small to large cams, small nuts, one shallow bolt, birdbeak or some type of hook (unless going for FFA) and several slings.


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By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Feb 18, 2017

Free route as of 2.16.2017. Best moments: Sun bathing on the giant ledge and riding the whale fin below the hardness. Would easily be the best trad line at the Anvils. Bring micro widgets to protect the hard moves. Replaced rappel materials with fresh tat-a-puss. JS, AM, JH

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