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Mt. Ogden
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Battle Rattle T 
Gray Slabs, The T 
Wishful Thinking T 
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Battle Rattle 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 700', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown this ascent Derek DeBruin, John Fisher, Dan Newman
Season: June to October
Page Views: 443
Submitted By: Derek DeBruin on Jul 5, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Approximate location of bolts and anchors with app...

Description 

This route ascends directly up the northeast face of Mount Ogden. It features more continuous climbing than that found on the "Gray Slabs." Engaging movement, good shade in the afternoon, and a direct line make this a good test piece for the 5.8 leader.

Begin atop the scree/talus pile of the apron below the NE face (around the buttress right of the Gray Slabs). Start right of a large right-facing corner and left of a chossy-looking ramp that angles up and right.

P1 low 5th 80 ft:
Wander up for about 50 on beautiful polished, compact rock, picking the line of least resistance through terrain with spaced out protection. Angle up and right to the base of a left-angling ramp under an overhang. Switchback left up the ramp and belay at the apex of the ramp in a short right-facing corner on finger size gear. Check out the old bong piton while you're at it.

P2 5.8 130 ft:
An awesome pitch! Step left off the belay around the corner to good pro in a short crack. After this, head up and slightly left on super fun crimps, edges, and dishes. A few small pieces lead to a bolt, followed by a short right-facing flake/crack. From the crack, begin trending right to another bolt. Continue up and right to a bolt at the small overhang. Pull the overhang and head straight up to a 2-bolt anchor. Bring plenty of small gear.

P3 5.7 130 ft :
Reasonably fun climbing, but still pretty dirty. Head up the face aiming for the right side of a small tree. Past this tree, trend up and leftward, passing a small roof through its weakness on the right. Finish on a spacious ledge under the shade and security of a large evergreen and belay.

P4 5.7 60 ft:
Walk across the tree ledge and climb the short, clean face to the tree ledge just above. A portent of the equally good pitches above. Belay at a tree.

P5 5.7 150 ft:
From the P4 belay, move the belay across the ledge to the right about 50 feet, ending at the left-facing corner. A tree at the lip of the ledge provides a new anchor. Climb the slab above following the easiest moves on rock that yields easier climbing and better protection than it first appears (though pro is amply spaced at times).

As the climbing tapers, head up and right across a sloping ledge system (beware loose rock!) and belay at the base of a short left-facing corner system.

There is a dug-out placement in a low horizontal crack for a 0.75. The corner crack needs either a tipped out #3 or a #4; unfortunately, this is the only place a #4 is needed on the entire route.

P6 5.6 100ft:
Climb the short face immediately above the belay (no pro) to the ledge, then walk right across the ledge and step up to sink a bomber #2 camalot in a pod near a small grassy crack. Continue up the face aiming to finish just left of the apex of the pyramid above.

Belay at the final single-bolt belay anchor of the "Gray Slabs." This bolt is easily backed up by a medium nut or finger-sized cam.

P7 4th/low 5th 100ft:
Scramble up and right along the ridge to the summit of Mount Ogden.

Descend via the walk-off trail to the saddle to the south. Continue along the ridge line trail and skirt the Needles on the right/west side to the Middle Bowl saddle. Follow the obvious trail back to the gondola.

Location 

Hike north past the "Gray Slabs" around the low-point of the east shoulder, and continue uphill passing "Wishful Thinking." Continue uphill around the right to the top of the scree/talus pile that marks the base of the route and the top of the Mount Ogden apron.

Protection 

Single set to #3 or #4, doubles to 0.75. Bring plenty of small cams and 10 - 12 slings.


Photos of Battle Rattle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Coe on P2 of Full Battle Rattle
Peter Coe on P2 of Full Battle Rattle
Rock Climbing Photo: John approaching the P1 belay of "Full Battle...
John approaching the P1 belay of "Full Battle...
Rock Climbing Photo: Derek starting up P2.
Derek starting up P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: The first three pitches of "Full Battle Rattl...
BETA PHOTO: The first three pitches of "Full Battle Rattl...

Comments on Battle Rattle Add Comment
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By Neil Johnson
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 29, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Bring at least a double rack of micro cams for pitch 2. The first part of the pitch protects adequately, but after the short crack system left of the belay, I encountered a healthy runout (~40'). I may have been off-route as described above, because my line landed me directly under the old pin under the roof. I found the traverse from this pin to the bushy ledge (~30') to lack any protection, but it was only around 5.6 terrain.

We bailed from the top of pitch 4 because pitch 2 used up much more time than anticipated. There is an excellent escape ledge to the South.

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