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Battle of the Bulge 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 2,928
Submitted By: rl23455 on Aug 31, 2009

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Battle of the bulge

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Crux is bulge halfway up. One toe jam step up into crack feel for crack on left side of crack way in the back.


far right side of lower terrace


all gear, all the time. Gear to 3.5" for anchor, but can get away with <1.5"

Photos of Battle of the Bulge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Allison onsighting Battle Of The Bulge.  Jul 2015.
Allison onsighting Battle Of The Bulge. Jul 2015.
Rock Climbing Photo: a fun and worthwhile route
BETA PHOTO: a fun and worthwhile route
Rock Climbing Photo: Battle of the Bulge. 5.8 route.
BETA PHOTO: Battle of the Bulge. 5.8 route.

Comments on Battle of the Bulge Add Comment
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By camtron Summers
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
Nov 27, 2010

no gear for the first 30ft unless you uses some tri-cam. Super fun gets 4 or 5 stars in the supertopo giude.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Sep 17, 2011

Second that. First 30 feet very thin on gear and hard enough any 5.8 leader should think twice if they have any doubts. Rest of climb is G and quality. Top rope was a little tricky but only 4th class to access the top of the route. 70m a must for TR.
By hubix
Aug 6, 2012

Quality is excellent. Great hand jams half way up. Stiff crux.
We actually top roped it with a 60m rope. I guess it depends how high you put the gear anchor.
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Sep 12, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The start looks spooky from below but my leader managed to get lots of reasonable (though maybe not bomb-proof) cams in. The crux is simple using knees!
By Vit
Jun 27, 2013

I found the first 20 ft actually protect quite well with Metolius TCUs. Agreed that 60m minimum is necessary for TR. Class 3 walk-off towards the left at the top.
By rl23455
From: Portland, OR
Mar 30, 2014

I had no trouble placing gear first 30 feet. I do remember running out of cams for the route, getting real creative at the end.
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Jul 5, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Not R rated like supertopo book suggest. Agree with Vit regarding first 20 ft. protects really well with TCUs. My first piece was a red TCU that was actually hard to get out on the rappel. 2nd piece was an orange TCU then after are finger to hand size placements.

I think a 5.8 leader doesn't need to think twice about this route. Good pin scars for holds and good feet while placing gear down low. Crux is at top pulling pass a bulge. No need to use knees, use that hand and toe jam.
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Jul 19, 2015

bomber tricams for the start, and cams as well. route description could do without the "halfway" crux beta instructional spray, which may well differ from what others consider the crux anyway
By alleyehave
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 1, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This was a fun, somewhat varied climb. The climb has ample opportunities for protection the entire way. I got a bomber blue/yellow offset mastercam in the first 8 feet or so. Although, a regular cam of similar size would have worked fine, this climb simply doesn't warrant the R that Supertopo gives it, not even a PG13.

I actually felt the 5.8 moves were pretty soft for the area, don't hesitate on this one.
By Mike Womack
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jul 25, 2017

I used small cams for the start (.5 and .75 BD I believe). With good small cams, this is a very safe climb. Enjoy!

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