REI Community
search
Advanced
Shadow Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1st Offense T,S,TR 
Battle of the Bulge S,TR 
Desperado S 
Diamond S 
Eat Mo' Possum T 
Fat Man S,TR 
Fields of Fire S 
I Love a Mystery TR 
Inner Sanctum  T 
Lycra S 
Middle Man S 
Powerplay T,TR 
Pressure Drop S 
Shadow S,TR 
Shadow Traverse S 
Swallow T,S,TR 
THC S 
Thin Man S 
Three To Get Ready S 

Battle of the Bulge 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Pete Gulyash, Lee Millon
Page Views: 977
Submitted By: Kristin McNamara on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

I love slab. I love this route. One really key foot is just below the first bolt, I found it was easier to do a single biner rather than a draw in order to hit it. Once you pull the bulge, go up Despreado. You can go over left to lower it a few letter grades.

Protection 

TR from the anchors for Diamond (note multiple anchors . . .) or use the 3 bolt lead.


Comments on Battle of the Bulge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jon Hanlon
From: SLO
Feb 11, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

.10C variation left of the Bulge...Fantastic thin friction with buttery, stretchy moves....makes the 5.8-5.9 face climbing above the Bulge seem like 5.2.
By Jim Reynolds
Apr 11, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Some seriously finger hurting thin smearing. Trust that left foot!
By Josterling
Sep 9, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Jim, Cant agree more that bulge makes your fingers scream. Fun Route!
By David Delkeskamp
Feb 13, 2017

I did the single biner on the first bolt as Kristin suggests and it worked well. I pre-hung a (really) long sling off the second bolt of diamond to avoid a potential grounder for the leader (me). Probably 5.8 slab terrain in the ground fall zone getting to that second bolt of diamond. Not sure if I got into the "10c variation left of the bulge" or not. Either way this is primo shadow wall stuff here. Fingers didn't hurt until the next day.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About