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The Canal Zone
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Aretnophobia S 
Batso Canal S 
Bear's Choice S 
Beasto S 
Box of Rain S 
Buckets of Rain S 
Cut Loose S 
Dirt Trek T 
Gondolier Arete S 
Holiday Road S 
Ivy League S 
Lambada S 
Lame Line T 
Levada S 
Made In The Shade S 
Panama Red S 
Ridin' the Moon Buggy  T 
Ripple S 
Route Canal T 
Snake Eyes S 
Turkey Jerky S 
Venice Beach S 
Walking With A Ghost S 
Whopper, The S 

Batso Canal 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Kirk Miller
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 8,922
Submitted By: Kirk Miller on Aug 3, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (229)
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Batso, climbing superhero, author of Downward Boun...

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  • Description 

    Use a stick clip or pull the .10+ bouldery start to clip the first bolt (can be protected with finger sized cams), clip the second bolt from a hidden jug on the left, traverse right and balance out onto your perch on the arete (the bailout left is fun too), find the pockets and mount the bulge to reach the anchors. Beware the bat.

    Location 

    This is right of Made In The Shade, see the topo photo.

    Protection 

    Eight bolts to chains.


    Photos of Batso Canal Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: 2 bolts up.
    2 bolts up.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jug hauling to the anchor.
    Jug hauling to the anchor.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Near the bottom.
    Near the bottom.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nan through the second crux, gaining the arete.
    Nan through the second crux, gaining the arete.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nan on the lower section of Batso Canal.
    Nan on the lower section of Batso Canal.

    Comments on Batso Canal Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 26, 2017
    By Jake Wyatt
    From: Longmont, CO
    Aug 9, 2008

    Great moves in the middle section of the climb, especially getting onto the arete.
    By Kris S
    From: Illinois
    Aug 13, 2008
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    A little awkward for most of the route, follows 3 distinct features for only 1/2 of their length then the climbing ends abruptly. Still dirty and looks like several holds will come off with traffic. There could definitely be a direct start thru the steep rock into the arete.
    By Tim Kline
    From: Littleton, co
    Aug 31, 2008

    The start of this climb is definitely the crux; however, getting out onto the arete is also tricky. I felt that this was more like a 5.11- than a .10+. Great climb though!
    By AOSR
    From: Wherever we park!
    Sep 11, 2008
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    I loved this route. Fun beginning with a few strength/reach moves, traverse to the arete, then an awesome and well protected move to get going up the exposed corner.

    I had the pleasure of meeting the man responsible for this route last time there--many thanks should go his way for putting this great wall together. Thanks Kirk (and I did nail it clean on my 2nd try!)
    By Darren Mabe
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    Sep 24, 2008
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Interesting and imaginative line! Moves getting to the arete are memorable and fantastic. Finishing jug haul is a hoot.
    By David Hous
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Nov 3, 2008
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Very nicely bolted, thanks Kirk!
    The start is very bouldery; I'm sure I could work out a much smoother sequence with repeat ascents. I went too far right, then too far left and made it much harder than it needs to be. Getting on to the climb is the crux!
    By Chris JD
    From: Golden, Co
    May 19, 2009
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Really fun route. Thanks for putting it up Kirk, and good to meet you this evening!
    By Alison Conrad
    Jun 18, 2009

    Good route. A bouldery move mixed in with some balancey moves. My favorite lead here at this wall. It felt about 5.10.
    By Bruce Pech
    Jun 22, 2009
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Nice, Kirk. A smidge better and harder than Beasto and Turkey Jerky. Cool moves traversing out to the arete. The start was a bit reachy for 5'3" Wendy.
    By Jack C Swift
    From: Evergreen, CO
    Sep 1, 2009
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Tough start, but very interesting and balancy moves. I went up to the undercling before taking the airy step out to the arete. Interesting route.
    By Phill T
    Aug 14, 2010

    The direct line is also fun to fire off on TR. Maybe 10d/11a, rejoins the main line at the 3rd or 4th bolt. Great line with either start!
    By Dwight Jugornot
    From: Arvada, Co.
    Jul 22, 2011
    rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    My favorite 10 at Canal Zone. Two cruxes. 1 getting to the first bolt (dyno!), and 2 getting out onto the arete. I found the start to be really physical followed by sustained climbing. Lesser crux getting out onto the arete. Both cruxes are easier for tall people.
    Felt like a darn tough 10, just shy of the 11 mark.
    By Jake Web
    Jun 25, 2017
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    IDK why, but I always climb Aretnephobia and can get it clean, but I can't get his damn climb clean at ALL.

    Maybe it's just my style of climbing, maybe it's my routefinding (this climb WINDS, for what reason??? I have no idea).

    Maybe it's the bouldery start which I still haven't been able to dial down clean without getting real scared of decking on.

    It bugs me. I don't like it.
    By Matthew Abraham
    From: Denver, CO
    Jul 26, 2017
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    My friend and I were able to work out a smooth sequence for the start. The key is a somewhat hidden hold in the crack that makes for a solid enough left hand. Grab a decent right-facing sidepull with your right hand. Stay leaning to the left, find a low intermediate left foot, and find the solid high right foot just above the lip. From there, the left-hand reach to the jug rail just to the left of the first bolt is a relatively low effort move.

    Finding this sequence really improved my opinion of the route -- the rest is a blast.

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