|Type:||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]|
|FA:||FA P1 full: Bob Crawford, Pat Timson FFA P1 short: Terry Lien P1 full: Darryl Cramer, Max Dufford P2: Cramer, Nicola Masciandaro|
|Submitted By:||Drewsky on Jul 6, 2008|
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|Comments on Batskins||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
May 3, 2014
P1 actually has 3 protection bolts not 5. They protect the 5.12 stemming and face climbing. The lower climbing on P1 is gear protected.
P2 is a seldom-done classic. It can easily be reached without leading P1 by rapping 10m diagonally left from atop Godzilla.
2 bolts protect the first balance crux, stemming off knobs. The topo in SVR shows 3 bolts through this section, and the existing 2 bolts seem a little oddly-placed for freeclimbing. The upper crux protects great with small cams or wires, as well as a 3rd bolt which is clipped just after the crux. This is also new hardware, and it also replaced an old bolt drilled as an aid piece. I thought the location would be better a foot or two lower (or pre hang a draw) for free climbing. This pitch ends at a belay directly above the P1 anchors on J. Gardens.
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 12, 2016
"Ratskins" variation, 12a:
Climb up the majority of Batskins normally, clipping the first two bolts in the 5.12 part. Before reaching the last (third) bolt, cut left at the large "basketball" knob and angle directly toward the anchor using small knobs and sidepull edges. The third bolt can be clipped by leaning way right after gaining the juggy wafer flake, or you can just skip it and climb to the anchor. The protection for the new sequence is entirely adequate with only the first two bolts clipped.
This variation skips the hard, cryptic, spanny final crux at the last bolt of Batskins and replaces it with a fairly straightforward (and enjoyable) knob crimping sequence. With the upper crux avoided, the hardest moves on this variation are probably those moving past the 1st bolt. All told, it feels about 12a to do it this way. A good step easier than the standard LTW 12b's: Stern, Numbah Ten, Batskins, etc. Harder than TPMV (the 11d version), Tantric Bazooka, or Iron Horse. Probably comparable to Like Honey in difficulty (though very different in style), and a candidate for the most approachable 5.12 at the LTW.
I found this new sequence last Thanksgiving when trying the route with Chris Tyrell. While struggling to figure out the last crux, I happened to swing left and notice "There are holds over here!". We quickly figured out a sequence, and Chris dispatched it that weekend. I didn't have time to try it again that weekend, so I ended up waiting until the first weekend of this spring to do it.
I'm not sure if it has previously been done this way, although the initial dirtiness and coarse texture of the edges suggested that they had not seen much/any human contact before. They have since cleaned up nicely. Some others who have tried this new way have commented that it is basically a different route, and that doing it this way isn't really doing Batskins. Hence, to signify the difference, "Ratskins".
I'd recommend this route to anyone looking to break into LTW 5.12. It is at the bottom end of the grade (for Index, at least), and any climbing above 11a is comfortably protected by bolts. You can drop a TR to check out Batskins or Ratskins by swinging hard left from the Godzilla anchor.