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Batmans Nightmare 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dan Osman (1989)
Page Views: 866
Submitted By: Salamanizer suchoski on Dec 3, 2014

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Description 

Climb up Blue Cab or the first pitch of the North Face, Stem Meister or Yankee Dog continueing past the bolts to the big white scoop above. On the left side of the scoop, climb a short steep (5.10) broken section to a ramp that leads to the start of Wall Flower. This is on the left side wall of the white scoop.

Start up the overhanging crack on the left side of this wall. Steep hands and fingers, a fist or two past a cruxy section and more fingers and hands up an unrelenting wall. Follow the left crack above until it finally ends at a long section of overhanging jugs. Climb up overhanging jugs (5.10 at least) for about 15 to 20 feet to the chains. The overhanging jugs are totally unprotected but the climbing is so steep and high up that if you fall, even from the anchors, the only thing you could possably hit is air. Note that taking the fall from just before the anchors could cause one to "Poo Poo" their panties!

Location 

The obvious (when you look for it) overhanging crack on the headwall that makes up the left side of a giant white scoop left of Corrugation Corner.

Protection 

Cams to 3"


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By Khick
Aug 20, 2016

Steep and burly! A cool route with good position. The steep broken section to get up to the ledge is tricky and there are some loose blocks, watch out because the base of Corrugation is close by. Aptly named because 15-20 bats flew out of the crack while lowering.

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