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Batman 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 101
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 21, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Jobsite Middle and Right 7 Roofer 5.12a 8 Rib Brai...

Description 

Got endurance?

Batman is a juggy, severely-overhanging pump fest.

Scramble up the dark tillite to a slightly columnar section with a number of juggy protrusions on the right. Clip the first two bolts (in the tillite) long and get on top of the last of the tillite.

The third bolt is in the lighter quartzite, and it's here that the business starts. Gently overhanging for the next two bolts, and then it gets steep. Move fast on big holds. After several bolts of steepness the angle eases again to gently overhanging, although the pump at this point may be strong.

Note that the anchors were moved higher after the photo was completed; the route continues up for five more bolts past the illustrated anchor position.

Cleaning this thing top-down is strenuous; see if you can sucker someone into toproping it.

Length


If you belay from the base of the route a 60m will probably work (although I've not tried it), but you can't see the climber above the roof and therefore many people belay down the hill before the tillite and in that case a 70m is required.

Location 

Number 13 in this photo, the line starts about in the middle of the big roof area.

Protection 

15 bolts plus anchors (1 Mussy hook and 1 ring). Shares the first four bolts with Superman which branches left.

Because it's so overhanging, and there are lots of bolts, it helps to use two foot slings on the first bolts and longish draws on the rest.


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By Tyler Taggart
Jun 4, 2015

This route is fantastic! Would be 4 stars but it was very dirty when I climbed it. Took me a few tries to get it clean. I am sure that later in the season as it gets more traffic a lot of the dust will clean off. Be ready for some crazy rope drag at the top!

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