REI Community
Batman Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Backbone Arete S 
Bat Crack T 
Batman's Girdle T 
Carpenter's Corner T 
China Loving Blues T 
Clowntime is Over T 
Coors Roof T 
Dark Night, The TR 
Gobs of Blobs T 
Hand Jive T 
Hand Over Hand T 
Marlin Alley T 
No Known Cure T 
Riddler Right T 
Rockheads T 
Spaziergang T 
Station to Station T 
Summer Breeze T 

Bat Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,977
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Looking down from belay just over the crux roof.

Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>


A fascinating climb on the right side of Batman Rock. The long approach suggests that one ought to do other routes as well. Hike around Checkerboard Rock, then scramble up to the Base of Batman Rock. Go east, through a chimney, and look for where the long roof band is broken by a prominent notch, forming a short, overhanging right-facing corner about 150 feet up.

The route begins down and right of the notch, below a dead end crack that does not reach the ground (not to be confused with another crack to the right which harbors a tree). The first pitch is stimulating for the grade.

P1-climb up into the crack, climb it, and make a delicate ascending traverse left when it ends (5.8 with intermittent pro), to a belay directly under the notch. ~140 feet.

P2-turn the roof, exciting 5.9 with excellent protection, and continue more easily to the top of the Dome. ~140 ft.


Standard rack.

Photos of Bat Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving left at the first crux.  You can go straigh...
Moving left at the first crux. You can go straigh...
Rock Climbing Photo: Another beautiful day in Colorado!
Another beautiful day in Colorado!
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott cranking the roof.
Scott cranking the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: George at the uncomfortable belay, with the crux r...
George at the uncomfortable belay, with the crux r...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading the first pitch of Bat Crack.
Leading the first pitch of Bat Crack.

Comments on Bat Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kurt Johnson
From: Estes Park, CO
Dec 18, 2001
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

On the first pitch, after you leave the crack and start angling left, your protection options quickly dwindle. Although the guidebook calls the climbing here 5.6, the last move before stuffing your hand into the bomber horizontal roof crack is pure friction and felt a bit sketchy 35 feet above my last good piece (and 30 feet above my last piece). The roof above is pure fun, with perfect protection right where you want it. After this, however, the climbing is easy and uninteresting, typical of most Batman Rock topouts.
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Jan 7, 2002

I followed a friend up the first pitch. He angled up to the right after the crack dies out. There was decent pro for a while, but he ended up having to due a 20-25 foot traverse to the left, right below the roof (5.6s). His last few pieces were RPs. I very gripping (sic) off route variation.
By Luke Clarke
From: Golden
Sep 8, 2002

The approach is easier than described here if you follow the main trail to a wooden sign that points to Checkerboard and Batman Pinnacle to the left. Someone has carved Batman with an arrow pointing to the right. Take the trail to the right for a steep but more direct line to Batman Rock.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 22, 2002

The first pitch is definitely a bit spicy and an exercise in route finding. I followed the line in Rossiter's topo fairly closely. The belay under the roof is uncomfortable as there is no decent ledge. The roof on the second pitch is great fun, well protected and quite different from the first pitch. Not that the first pitch isn't fun, it just requires a lot more thinking.
By Scott Conner
From: Lyons, CO
Sep 23, 2002

The first pitch is indeed spicy and a more serious lead than the second (crux) pitch. The crux roof protects very well and is stellar but is over too quickly.
By Kevin Currigan
From: Lakewood
May 23, 2005

Followed the 1st pitch yesterday. It deserves an "S".
By nolteboy
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 19, 2005

With judicious use of long runners and a 60m line, one can, from the ground, climb thru the roof to belay at a relatively comfortable stance about 35 feet above the roof (small gear).
By Eran Shileikis
From: Dysfunctional, CO
Jun 19, 2006

Good route. The runout section begins just left of a mini-roof that is above and to the right of the major crack at the beginning of the climb. The climbing is definitely easier and superb through this section, though, so don't skip this climb! There were only 2 places for pro after the roof (use double length runners @ the mini-roof to avoid drag!!). A blue & yellow Alien are recommended for the left-ascending traverse/runout placements. Also, mid-sized hexes (WC 4, 5 and 6) worked *very well* in the lower section. The pro is tricky throughout P1, but I didn't find it any harder than 7+. Also, I would recommend linking P1 and P2 w/ a 60m (bring several long runners for the roof) to speed things up so you can climb other routes here!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 20, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The belay looked awkward and uncomfortable- there was no good stance, sooo....

With a 70M rope, this is a single pitch to the belay tree, provided you place slings to minimize drag (take a lot of 2' and a few 3' slings). The crux is "wow" but short. 2-star route with a ++ for the cool roof move, but really fell short of my expectations for the write-ups in the books; I expected a classic.
By Rich Kelly
From: Boulder
Aug 31, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

If you do not add long enough slings to the pieces under the crux roof when trying to link p1/2, the drag is really bad. Luckily there is a nice ledge to belay from just 8' over the roof on the climber's left.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About