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Bastille Buttress - Bad Hombres 

WI3 M4

Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 2000'
Original: WI3 M4 [details]
FA: M.Moser & R.Shore 4/20/17
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter - Spring
Page Views: 260
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Apr 24, 2017

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Myles Moser soloing low on route.

Access limited from May to October every year MORE INFO >>>


Bad Hombres climbs the narrow snow and ice gully that splits the right flank of the Bastille Buttress. A worthwhile romp if you can catch it in the right conditions, which can prove tricky given its low elevation and sun exposure. We probably missed ideal conditions by a few days or just a week in mid April after a huge snow year in the Sierra Nevada. Scope the route from the Whitney Portal Road and watch the forecasted temps. Climb early, climb fast, and respect the desert alpine!

The route consists of mostly 40-65 degree snow (hero neve, as we found it) separated by some more technical terrain. A long steep snow ramp leads to the first constriction and crux: a verglassed chimney-to-fist crack with a thin ice flow on the right side (M4). Another snow ramp separates it from two pitches of moderate but thin ice above (WI2/3). A final easy snow gully leads to two pitches of slabby, mixed rock and snow which head up and left to the summit of the Bastille Buttress. The rock walls on the side of the gully take decent gear for most of the route.

We descended the lower portion of LPP's north ridge using a combination of downclimbing and rappelling from trees. Winter conditions can make this descent as exciting as the climb itself. Come prepared with some bail slings and plan to carry everything up and over with you.


Single rack of cams and stoppers to 4", 4 short-med ice screws.

Photos of Bastille Buttress - Bad Hombres Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bad Hombres ascends the obvious snow & ice gully i...
Bad Hombres ascends the obvious snow & ice gully i...
Rock Climbing Photo: In the upper easy snow gully. 2 pitches of rock/mi...
In the upper easy snow gully. 2 pitches of rock/mi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Myles Moser leading the crux mixed chimney on Bad ...
Myles Moser leading the crux mixed chimney on Bad ...

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