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House of Pain
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Angular Momentum S 
Bastards in the Brothel S,TR 
Catharsis Roof S 
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House of Youth S 
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Jade S 
Lord of the Dance S 
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Spanish Fly S 
Stranglehold S 
Velcro Rodeo S 

Bastards in the Brothel 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
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Page Views: 1,176
Submitted By: 8jimi8 Clary on Sep 3, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: One of Reimer's best

Description 

High crux over the last bolt. Crank the gaston and then layback like a mofo and scramble up some bad crimps

Location 

Take the first 3 bolts of Jade and then traverse left following the obvious jugs.

Protection 

5 bolts and a 3 chain anchor


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By Gavin Echterling
Aug 11, 2014

Pretty burly crux at the top, fair warning, you can take some pretty big whippers on this one. I took 2 one day and both were about 15 feet. Super clean, open air falls though.
By camtheman
From: Dallas, TX
Mar 8, 2017

There seem to be two different finishes on this route now. Perhaps someone can shed light on this. Climbed it in late feb 2017 and it seemed like you could either go left or you could pull a roof of sorts and finish more right on a separate (newer) pair of fix draw anchors.

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