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Bastardized Old Route 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 1,411
Submitted By: Orphaned on Feb 15, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This route starts on a clean 5.6-ish splitter to the right of Ice Cream Parlor about 75 feet. Climb up the fist/hand crack to a stance. Clip the bolt and make some dirty balancey moves using the faux dihedral and edges. Pass one more bolt to a nice ledge and half of an anchor. I ran out of bolts but there is a 4" empty hole next to the existing bolt (which is a 4" rawl).

Please chop me and remove my bad anchor.


This is on the far right of the Ice Cream Parlor, about 75 feet passed the Ice Cream Parlor route on the east side of the boulder.


Up to #3 camalot for the bottom, QD's for the remainder. 4" bolt for anchor

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By Greg D
From: Here
Feb 20, 2008

this route has been climbed before. Hopefully, new hardware was absolutely necessary. I will get back to you with the details on this one.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Apr 7, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

The splitter part is really good. The top part is plain scary. I got a halfway decent nut in between the bolts but broke every other hold I touched, munched on enough sand to crap out a small beach the next morning, and was convinced I would detach a massive block and kill my belayer. 2 stars for the first 35' (too bad it's so short), 2 bombs for the rest. As TP puts it, "tip-toe like a ballerina" or wait a couple centuries for the upper half to clean up.
By Greg D
From: Here
Apr 16, 2008

This may be a route called Deathtrap 5.8 done many years ago. Next time I'm there I'll try to confirm but you may be able to yourself. edit: not deathtrap.
By Greg D
From: Here
Mar 24, 2009

Climbed this one on Fri. This is one of the only routes that I would not do a second time... for several reason. Very poor rock (which doesn't bother me that much) and a poorly placed first bolt, and a poor anchor at the top. Not a new route to boot.
By Eric Odenthal
Dec 9, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R

jumped on this last spring. what an adventure. bad gear, bad rock, bad anchor. only one bolt at the anchor. WTF? light on the toes.

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