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Bear's Lair
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Basilica S 
Grin and Bear It S 
In A Rut S 
Movin' On S 
Out of the Wind S 
Tourmaline Dream S 
Wafer S 


YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Stuemke
Page Views: 668
Submitted By: Nate Oakes on May 30, 2006

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Basilica consists mostly of sharp conglomerate, with a short, blank-slab type start. Lots of pebbles and crystals, though most aren't great for holds. A stripe of orange lichen ascends just to the right of this route. There were a few easier sections, mainly below the second bolt and above the sixth, but the rest felt pretty sustained. Look for a sweet hold about 2/3 up in which you can wrap your thumb, first, and second finger around one crystal, and your pinky around another right next to it. Since this route appears to be seldom climbed, there is a fair amount of crud on the bottom half of the route, but it's worth doing. Belay is on a steep, loose slope.


See my note on Bear's Lair. Basilica lies on a prominent rock formation that includes a spire just to the right. Wafer is just uphill - see the latest RMNP guidebook for a decent sketch. From the approach trail to The Monastery, head left about 20 yards before entering the Vestibule. Pass a couple of rock formations on your right, the second of which has two bolted routes, and bush-whack to the left for about 150 yards. The rock basically lies at the same elevation as the uppermost prow of the last ridge you hike over to get to The Monastery, and it's near the steep descent into the valley on your left as you hike downhill. It took me and Chris about 30 minutes to find it with the guidebook - good luck!


8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. No need for slings at the anchor.

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By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
May 31, 2006
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Sustained beautiful movement. I feel sorry for the belayer as this has a sharp decline into the valley all along the base of the rock. I wonder how Stuemke ever found this, or why he decided to bolt it. But I'm glad he did!

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