Basic Bubba Crack
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Upper section of the crack
Harder than it looks.
Jam and stem right-facing dihedral. Move left around small roof to gain face and crack (crux 1). Climb undulating handcrack into awkward slot (crux 2) below pie-shaped roof. Top out to the left and move to anchors atop adjacent sport-route (Eight Ball...).
From main trail, descend wooden ladders. Stay left to go to Bubba Buttress. Follow trail along wall/face past several sport routes (Harmonic Jello 5.12c, etc...) to a deep right-facing dihedral and handcrack near a tree. BBC starts here.
Hands (and larger if you want). You'll want several #2 to #4 BD cams and maybe a big hex. No anchors. Move left to anchors atop Eight Ball.
BETA PHOTO: Left around roof, ascend crack.
BETA PHOTO: Right-face dihedral, then left around roof to crac...
Undulating nature of crack seen here. (Note, route...
BETA PHOTO: Basic Bubba Crack (5.9)
By Eric Beyeler
Jun 26, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bring plenty (4 or 5) #3's
By Jeff Dunbar
From: Carrboro, NC
Oct 20, 2015
4 or 5 BD #3s??? Nah. This nice route can be safely protected with two 2-inch cams, two 3-inch cams, one 4-inch cam (circa mid height after the roof), and a medium/large nut or .75-inch cam at the lip of the mini roof.
I'd say this is a great one for those breaking into the grade and/or learning to hand/fist-jam. The initial stemming corner is sweet, and there are many good stances outside the crack from which to place pro on the upper half too. The last few moves are enjoyably scruffy, but also very secure. You might thrutch for a few minutes, but you won't fall out!