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Basic Bubba Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kevin Parker, Garret Dudley (March 1987)
Page Views: 1,475
Submitted By: DaveB on Jul 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Upper section of the crack

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


Harder than it looks.

Jam and stem right-facing dihedral. Move left around small roof to gain face and crack (crux 1). Climb undulating handcrack into awkward slot (crux 2) below pie-shaped roof. Top out to the left and move to anchors atop adjacent sport-route (Eight Ball...).


From main trail, descend wooden ladders. Stay left to go to Bubba Buttress. Follow trail along wall/face past several sport routes (Harmonic Jello 5.12c, etc...) to a deep right-facing dihedral and handcrack near a tree. BBC starts here.


Hands (and larger if you want). You'll want several #2 to #4 BD cams and maybe a big hex. No anchors. Move left to anchors atop Eight Ball.

Photos of Basic Bubba Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun spot
Fun spot
Rock Climbing Photo: Left around roof, ascend crack.
BETA PHOTO: Left around roof, ascend crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Right-face dihedral, then left around roof to crac...
BETA PHOTO: Right-face dihedral, then left around roof to crac...
Rock Climbing Photo: Undulating nature of crack seen here. (Note, route...
Undulating nature of crack seen here. (Note, route...
Rock Climbing Photo: Basic Bubba Crack (5.9)
BETA PHOTO: Basic Bubba Crack (5.9)

Comments on Basic Bubba Crack Add Comment
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By Eric Beyeler
Jun 26, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Bring plenty (4 or 5) #3's
By Jeff Dunbar
From: Charlotte, NC
Oct 20, 2015

4 or 5 BD #3s??? Nah. This nice route can be safely protected with two 2-inch cams, two 3-inch cams, one 4-inch cam (circa mid height after the roof), and a medium/large nut or .75-inch cam at the lip of the mini roof.

I'd say this is a great one for those breaking into the grade and/or learning to hand/fist-jam. The initial stemming corner is sweet, and there are many good stances outside the crack from which to place pro on the upper half too. The last few moves are enjoyably scruffy, but also very secure. You might thrutch for a few minutes, but you won't fall out!

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