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Baseboy (Bolted Variation) 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Pier & Randy Marsh ('97)
Season: Any
Page Views: 3,630
Submitted By: Matt McMurray on Apr 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (199)
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BETA PHOTO: John starting out on Baseboy Direct, 5.11a. The o...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This is an excellent variation to Baseboy, and is safely bolted.


Climb the face immediately to the right of the major crack system, and join the finishing bolts of Baseboy.


7 Bolts to the chain anchors.

Comments on Baseboy (Bolted Variation) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 26, 2015
By Mike Dudley
From: Vegas
Jul 9, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This is a hard 5.10 but I don't think it is into the 5.11s. Enjoy
By mcompton Compton
Apr 29, 2012

Trying this out.. Helmet cam video beta. See if this is useful. Sorry about the grunting.
By Edward Pyune
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 12, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The right open-shut at the anchor is worn down quite a bit and should be replaced
By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Mar 8, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

You live here, follow through and buy one and replace it, you can unscrew and pop it in quickly. if not, consider an email and donation or offer to assist the local chapter of the ASCA.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 8, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I've got a few in my garage- i'll try to get out there and replace it sometime soon. Mussys can be worn down pretty far before its worrysome- they're two to three time as thick as anything else that has lasted 20 years previously, and those are pretty new...
By Justin Streit
Jun 3, 2013

To follow up on Edward's comment, the right Mussy is pretty worn through. Still has time, but will continue to wear through and create sharp edges on the hook. To me, its just a bad setup as that right Mussy is holding all the weight due to uneven chains. Therefore, I'm guessing more than just replacing the Mussy, a link should also be removed from the right chain to distribute the weight more evenly. That said, is there a place locally where someone can by Mussy hooks?
By D Young
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Jun 15, 2013

On June 13, 2013 I removed the worn hooks, filled and camoflaged the old holes. New hooks were added and should not wear as fast - they are even and should share the load nicely.
Rock Climbing Photo: Before showing worn hook on right.
Before showing worn hook on right.

Rock Climbing Photo: Before showing worn hook
Before showing worn hook

Rock Climbing Photo: New hooks painted black
New hooks painted black

Rock Climbing Photo: Find the old holes if you can...
Find the old holes if you can...

Dan Y
By Sandy Crimp
Jun 16, 2013

Why replace the bolts when just the mussy's (or really just the right one) needed replacement? I understand that what you did was a gift of your time and money, and I do appreciate that. It is great when people like you give back. Really!

I am more concerned that people OVER-DO it, and I am just wondering why you would go through the trouble of replacing PERFECTLY good bolts. It is nice that you patched the holes , and you did a really GREAT job at it. I know there was some thought that the bolts where not even, so there was greater wear on the right mussy...that is true, but I still think this fix was overdone. Just dropping in a new right mussy would have been fine, or evening them out with links, etc.

Dan, This is more of a general comment and not specifically picking on you. You have made some GREAT contributions (BBWolf and Meet Up are both quality additions), but I have seen SEVERAL over zealous "FIX" or "REPLACEMENT" efforts that ultimately lead to unnecessary wear on the rock. Even patched holes are a probelem in the LONG term. We should replace TRULY BAD bolts and leave the others as they are.

Were the new bolts/hangers stainless? IF not...what you did is VERY short sighted, and the community would have been way better off with simply a new mussy which could have been replaced every few years for about $3 and with NO wear/tear on the rock.
By D Young
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Jun 18, 2013

Do I know you? I don’t think I do so I’m assuming you don’t know me either. Are you some kind of bully? Are your capital letters supposed to intimidate me or scare me? Good luck with that.

Since you don’t know me, I can also assume you don’t know my experience, my ethics, and the review of all possible solutions I go through before I make any changes to other’s fixed gear. Maybe it is my mistake, but I assumed that by showing the uneven bolts, and showing that the right hook was severely worn, that it would be obvious that the anchor bolts needed to be leveled. And I also assumed climbers would see the fix, including the patched holes, and think “good job”. I didn’t think I needed to spell out, in detail, every possible scenario I looked at before reaching my conclusion, just to appease the negative posters like you seem to be. Obviously I was wrong so now I will go through and document all of the decisions I made.

I would really like to address every one of your bullshit comments, but I’m just going to throw a blanket over them and call them all bullshit. Were you there with me? Did you see the anchor and the surrounding rock? Did you assess all possible solutions with me? Do you even know you can’t level out a mussy hook type anchor by adding one link? The total number of links must be an odd number or the hook will lay flat against the rock. By your comments I’m guessing you have no clue about that. The gap between the higher bolt and the lower bolt was just uneven enough to be impossible to level the hooks out by adding links.

So here are the considerations I went through before removing and drilling. Was it just the right hook that was worn and the left one was fine? No, both had serious wear issues. The left hook was wearing into a knife edge because of the way the rope went over one side, then up to the next hook. See picture below. So I couldn’t replace just one. Both needed to be replaced. But you weren’t there so how would you know that? Should I just remove/replace one bolt to even them out? No because the quality and shape of the rock did not permit that solution, and I wasn’t about to chisel out a flat spot for the hanger to fit in given how featured the surrounding rock is. Again, the best solution was to replace both. As for your comment on stainless and “VERY short sighted” – this is not Thailand, it is the desert. I don’t see how changing out an imperfect anchor with a perfect anchor will cause more wear on the rock. Seriously…

I could keep going and blow holes in every one of your comments but I’ve made my point. Maybe you should consider contacting me directly to find out the details next time before spewing such a negative post. But then, your post just shows what kind of person you are and I guess that is a good thing for people to see.

Rock Climbing Photo: Left hook wearing to a knife edge
Left hook wearing to a knife edge
By Sandy Crimp
Jun 18, 2013

I think if you read my comment closer you would not feel personally attacked, and you would be able to see it as a more general comment on heavy handed replacement efforts.

How you took it as a personal attack or an attempt to intimidate you (with those scary all caps...even though several of the all caps were actually compliments of your quality FA's) is beyond me.

If you calm down and reread my comment...and then might see a real disconnect in tone and intent.
By D Young
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Jun 20, 2013

I can't be more calm. I've read and re-read these comments and I stand by my rebuttal. Your rant is nothing but opinions while I descredit each opinion with fact. You are right about one thing, there is a disconnect. If there ever was a perfect candidate for an anchor replacement, it was this one. Face it, you stuck your foot in your mouth when you picked this effort to bitch about heavy handed replacement efforts.
By Justin Streit
Jul 23, 2013

Dan, most importantly thanks for the new setup. I don't know either of you and don't really care to comment on most of what's been said or what is best in this situation. I do know that the previous anchor setup was just bad and am happy that a good route has a better anchor in place now thanks to Dan. Kudos.
By Cunning Linguist
Jul 25, 2013

^^^^^With so much drama in tha LBC, it must be hard still bein just Danger D, but he, somehow someway, keep comin up with funky ass shit like every single day! I second the real real on the real, dawg.
By the professor
Mar 17, 2015
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Have to disagree with the initial comment by Mike Dudley: crimping those side pulls and reaching for the pocket is 5.11-
By Taylor Currier 1
From: South Lake Tahoe, California
May 26, 2015

Cannibal crag seems to have some Hero grades. I just did a couple of routes yesterday and started with Baseboy as a warm up. The crux was very distinct but not very hard. I would call this 10b or 10c. Even in the heat and sun. I thought Caustic Cock was more difficult for the same grade.

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