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The Precipice aka The South Wall
Routes Sorted
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Albatross T 
Balance Queen T 
Band of Gypsys T 
Bartleby -(Central Slab) T 
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START)  T 
Boys From Bangor T 
Byzantine T 
Chicken of the Sea T 
Chitlin's Corner T 
Connecticut Cracks T 
Country Corner - (mid-cliff START) T 
Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) T 
Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) T 
Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START)  T 
Fat Back Crack  T 
Fat Gypsy  T 
Fear of Flying T 
Fingers in a Seascape (mid-cliff START) S 
From Russia With Love -(Central Slab) T 
Gale Face T 
Games Without Frontiers - (mid-cliff START) S,TR 
Green Mt. Breakdown T 
Grendal T 
Gunklandia T 
Gunklandia Direct Variation T 
High Wire T 
Impalpable Cracks T 
Jaws T 
Juvenile T,S 
London Bridges T 
Lower Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 
Main Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 
Maniacal Depression T 
Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff START) T 
Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab) T 
Old Town T 
Philidelphia Story, The T 
Pipe Dreams T 
Precipice Ledges T 
Quiver T 
Ramp Traverse, The T 
Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 
Retlaw T 
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 
Rusticator T 
Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S 
Sea Gypsy T 
Space Between T 
Staircase, The T 
Standard Route T 
Star Face Mole T 
Story of O T 
Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 
Swept Away T 
Tempest , The T 
Trotsky T 
Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 
Wet Lithuanian, The T 
Wilner's Route TR 

Bartleby -(Central Slab) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 4,807
Submitted By: Mark Cushman on Jul 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (62)
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On the lead. Never get tired of this route. 3 star...

Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons MORE INFO >>>


Climb a short, right facing corner to a roof, gain some handholds under the roof and pull around to the left. Climb a left arching fingercrack up to fixed anchors.


This climb is on the Central Slabs; after passing the end of the Lower Wall, go up the talus and Staircase and continue right.


Standard trad rack, emphasis on finger and hand sized pieces.

Photos of Bartleby -(Central Slab) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Bartleby, as seen from below. Gain th...
BETA PHOTO: The start of Bartleby, as seen from below. Gain th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Finish off a great climb with wild bluberries righ...
Finish off a great climb with wild bluberries righ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The nice crack above the roof.
The nice crack above the roof.

Comments on Bartleby -(Central Slab) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dom
From: New Brunswick Canada
Apr 25, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The fingercrack after the roof is amazing. The roof is also really fun.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Oct 7, 2011

Don't be intimidated by the roof. The gear is excellent and the stance you will find after you pull up and around to the left is very secure. You do have to PULL though. What a great little route--too bad the upper crack isn't longer.
By Dave Pfurr
Sep 21, 2012

Agree with the above comments. Great pro at the roof. No particularly big cams needed. Really is a sweet route.
By Max Dismukes
From: North Quincy, MA
Jun 16, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This was a contender for my favorite route during a weekend full of climbing here. Great fist jam over the top makes pulling the roof easier than you would think. And while you don't necessarily need any big gear, I did place a #4 C4 in the wide crack down low after the wedged block, and a #3 right before the roof.
By Nolan Huther
From: Clarkson University
Jul 26, 2017

Though not as aesthetic, I preferred this climb over Old Town! Super fun crack climbing, loved it all, protection is great, only wish it could've gone on and on... Start slab is pretty nice easy climbing too, it didn't have a polished feel like Wafer Step.

My real reason for posting is why isn't that wide crack/offwidth beneath where the slab traverses into the corner trundled to make for a more direct start? Some flakes and rocks are kinda loose in there but it'd make a beautiful, continuous crack climb! Doesn't anyone like offwidth?
By anotherclimber
Aug 15, 2017

A note for the area:

My observation is that the Central Slabs area of South Wall dries first after a rain storm before a lot of stuff on other parts of South Wall.

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