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Bartizan Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack of Earthly Delights T 
Elrod's Epic T 
Kevizan T 
Lion's Share T 
Naked Rib, The T,S 
Storming the Castle T 
Window on the West T 

Bartizan Wall Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: joelhagan on Oct 4, 2007
Forecast:
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20°
Monday

24° | 4°
Tuesday

13° | -4°
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27° | 17°
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Description 

Huge wall to the South West of the Cathedral Spires. In the Shade a large amount of the time and like most of this area is windy a lot of the time.

Routes seem to be mostly more difficult on this wall and it looks very intimidating. Anybody with specific route information please post.

Getting There 

Approach from the Cathedral Spire's trailhead.

Climbing Season

For the Custer State Park area.

Weather station 6.3 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Bartizan Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Bartizan Wall:
Crack of Earthly Delights   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 210'   
Lion's Share   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Storming the Castle   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 240'   
The Naked Rib   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 280'   
Kevizan   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Bartizan Wall

Featured Route For Bartizan Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Right up the center

Kevizan 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  SD : Custer State Park : Bartizan Wall
This one is much better than anticipated. What looks like a wide nightmare on poor rock turned out to be very enjoyable. Face climbing around most wide sections (my favorite), perfect natural belays, amazing last pitch, and a sweet walk-off.P1: 5.10, 150' Cruise up to the small right facing chimney. Pull bulge and continue 'til you reach a nice ledge with a pin. Small gear for anchor.P2: 5.10-, 65' Go for the large crack off the climber's left side of the belay ledge. Bust left onto face before ...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Photos of Bartizan Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bartizan Wall from the Picket Fence
Bartizan Wall from the Picket Fence

Comments on Bartizan Wall Add Comment
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By Tim McCabe
May 30, 2011
If this wall were any where else it would get tons of traffic, in the Needles not so much. When I first moved there in 89 I met Bruce Thompson who was on the FA of Window on the West. He took me up the Window and later we did Kevizan as well. I would say that Window on the West is a 3-4 star route Kevizan 2-3 the roof by itself would be a 4.

I did Window several more times and would highly recommend it.

The only other route that I got on was Crack of Earthly Delights, as I recall it was just OK. Never went back to it so that says something.

Even though it's not a spire this wall is well worth checking out.