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YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Howard/Strong
Page Views: 850
Submitted By: climber76 on Nov 1, 2010

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Rob Kelman on Barock.


This route is 2nd from the left, between Ixodes and Nervous Tic. It heads up the obvious, slanting, offwidth crack. After 30 feet, the crack ends, and the climb heads straight up the slab. Originally this required gear, but after I realized that most sport climbers don't carry #6 Camalots, I put a couple of bolts next to the crack. No gear other than draws is needed. The cruxes are the upper part of the offwidth, and higher up on the slab.


10-12 draws. The anchor is a chain slung around a tree.

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By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Nov 20, 2010

There appear to be 2 additional pitches above this. P2 (~5.8) has only 2 bolts and a set of chains on a pair of anchor bolts. P3 (5.5) has 4 bolts and angles left. You have to do a diagonal rap of P3 if you only have 1 60m rope.
By Eric Winne
Jan 18, 2011

Pitch 2 has 6 bolts, the third one does not make much sense as it lies at knee height after the loose, left-facing dihedral. Pitches 1-2 or 2-3 can be combined, 2 raps.

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