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Barney's Crack 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 1,338
Submitted By: e Dixon on Jun 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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This is a great route and an East A classic! Tricky moves up a slab lead to varied and interesting face climbing. Finish up the nice steep finger crack then mantle to a small ledge with bolts.


This is between Gorilla Crack and The Squeeze.


Blue - yellow Aliens, small - medium stoppers, 8 bolts.

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By Ben Kiessel
Nov 14, 2007

This is one of the best routes at East A.
By Sam Feuerborn
Apr 21, 2010

Heady start for sure. Some of those bolts could be replaced if anyone's looking for something to do/put money into.
By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Jul 6, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Anybody know why all the bolts on Barney's Crack looked bashed in?
By knowbuddy Buddy
Oct 19, 2012

Pretty poor quality rock and shitty bolts make this an interesting pitch. Looked like there were a good amount of freshly broken holds on it yesterday .
By Sam Feuerborn
Nov 27, 2012

Several bolts that were in the worst shape have been replaced, though the old studs still need to be removed if anyone has a steel chisel, I'd be happy to do it myself.

What do you folks think of replacing the first bolt with the mangled hanger? If it were replaced ,the draw when clipped would not hang over that hand hold and could potentially alter how the route climbs, is this nit picky or a legit concern?
By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Dec 11, 2012

First bolt needs to be moved 6" to the right for sure.
By -mn
Dec 12, 2012

Or 12" lower so you don't crater if you blow it. I'd talk to Joel and Tim? (FA) though, before you go and "re-place" anything else on this route. Sam - are you going to saw those studs off and patch the holes? Yeah, this is one of the best - the last 20ft. anyway - and funkiest routes up there. ..miles
By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
Nov 28, 2015

Ok, sorry 'bout those lame ass bolts, but here's the story:
I don't know if anyone has replaced those bolts yet, if not, I will.

I can't really see why some think the start is heady or why the bolt would be moved down. People might be doing those first moves wrong or something. Anyway, the bolt could be moved left or right a few inches. I used a good climbing bolt for the first bolt, because that's the crux of the whole route, and my thinking was that if you could get past there, you shouldn't fall on the easier terrain above.

Another reason I used those $0.29 pieces of crap from Kroegers is that a guy can set them in the hole with one hand whilst hanging on to the rock with the other (you need two hands to get a Rawl 5 piece started. Plus they were cheap). At the time, I thought those bolts would be totally adequate - I didn't even bother placing them to full depth. I think previously, I had been using quarter inch split shaft little things that I got for free, from a surplus. The route, Crime and Punishment used to be equipped with, like, 5 of those, it was basically a free solo back then. Terrifying to lead. Anyway, the climbing world was at an awkward stage of evolution at that time. And Durango in a bubble, as always.

Def one of the coolest routes at East A.

In fact, I think the anchor is a couple of those old, threaded, split shaft 1/4" x 2" bolts and one 3/8" Rawl. Totally bomber!
By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
Nov 28, 2015

Protect the crack with small and meduim stoppers. You will phuk yerself with cams.

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