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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jim Blakley
Page Views: 5,317
Submitted By: Darin Limvere on May 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Just below the crux. Krzysztof Gorny, December 200...


This is the classic trad climb at Red Wing. In previous years people have attempted to turn this crack into a sport climb. It has been bolted, chopped, re-bolted and chopped many times. The original route (5.11a) takes the right hand crack and traverses left onto an obvious ledge about 15ft off the deck. There are possibilities for high gear placements to protect the traverse. The left variation starts below the ledge and goes straight up. Only one piece of gear protects the move onto the ledge. Follow the crack up left to a good rest. The crux gear is in solid rock and it is possible to get in 2 to 3 pieces to protect it. Keep hauling up the crack until you're under a large flake. Pull over the flake/bulge onto the face and clip the chains. Some loose rock sits behind the flake and could cause problems with clipping the chains if grabbed. Beware. Hard onsight. Located at the far right side of the Winter Wall.


Original route- full set of wires, small cams, hexes #6-#10, or medium cams #.75-#3 (doubles or triples on #.75) a couple long runners

Left variation- full set of wires, small cams, hexes #7-#10, or medium cams #1-#3, a couple long runners

Photos of Barnburner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Early lead of Barnburner Crack. Before gyms,powerb...
Early lead of Barnburner Crack. Before gyms,powerb...
Rock Climbing Photo: up high
up high
Rock Climbing Photo: holding the swing
holding the swing
Rock Climbing Photo: crossing over
crossing over
Rock Climbing Photo: down low
down low
Rock Climbing Photo: Barnburner. Crux. December '06. Photo: Darin Limve...
Barnburner. Crux. December '06. Photo: Darin Limve...

Comments on Barnburner Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 21, 2010
By Adam Therneau
Nov 15, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Nice crack climb, always pumps out my right arm. I've never been comfortable enough with the crap rock to risk leading this thing.
By Travis Hibbard
Jun 19, 2007

I know the rock is pretty shatty in places at the Bluff, how bad is it on this route?? I'm thinking about leading it this weekend but wanted to get an idea of how the gear is and if its worth hopping right on it on lead or if I should set up a TR first.
By Travis Hibbard
Nov 12, 2007

About 15-20 ft up just below the crux, a large section of a block broke off creating a small ledge. You could now have a hands free rest before heading into the crux of the route. I haven't done it since the block broke off but its probably a little softer now.
By Kris Gorny
Nov 16, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Wow, when did the piece break, Travis? There was a hollow sounding crack just above the platform. Is that it?
By Travis Hibbard
Nov 17, 2007

Yeah it was right once you move past the traverse platform by maybe 5-10 ft. I'll be interested to see how it changes the route. Funny considering I posted earlier this year wondering how the quality of the rock is on this route.
By Darin Limvere
Apr 30, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Yeah... We always joked about being on that part of the climb and the whole thing coming off and riding the block to the ground! Funny cause that was also the spot to place sketchy nuts behind the block. It looks like it's a full no hands rest so I'd imagine the route will get easier but maybe the gear won't happen until the crux... Who knows. I guess the gear probably wasn't all that good anyway seeing how the thing fell off. Hats off to whoever leads that thing first this season. Could be interesting!
By Kris Gorny
May 19, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

I led it few times this spring. Only an upper part of the column, that we joked would come off one day, fell. The new platform makes it easier but is not "no hands". It is rather hollow and only as stable as the part that broke off. It may be a good idea to use a crowbar before someone gets seriously injured. Be careful on this climb, whether on lead or top rope. The crux and above is solid. By Red Wing standards that is.
By Glenn Burns
From: St. Paul, MN
May 20, 2008

thanks for the update kris;

i will add this route on the routes to be looked at on clean up day... i'm trying to save this route and only climb it when i feel like i'm ready to lead it... that may change depending on if it still can be led safely from the ground up. since the route has changed, i can already hear the drills humming ;) .

By Kris Gorny
May 20, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Glenn, hit that "column" few times and see if it's reasonable to try prying it out. It is definitely hollow-sounding. You can inspect the top part that's now on the ground -- still has chalk marks. It probably fell off on its own, with nobody on it, otherwise I can't imagine the belayer wouldn't get hit.
By Jeff Kolehmainen
From: Eagan, MN
May 21, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

I led this today and the "column" seems to be OK. Super solid.. no. Not sure if you could take the thing off, it might cause more damage than good to take a crowbar to it and loosen it up more without being able to get it off completely. Something to think about when it gets looked at.

Climb was a little sandy above, although like Kris said, the gear was actually pretty solid after the "new" ledge.
By Kris Gorny
May 23, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Jeff -- to clarify, I am not talking about the entire "column" but only its upper block, which is ~ 3ft high and is delineated from the rest by a horizontal fracture. I remember the similar fracture under the 5ft top that fell off. I agree with you though that we shouldn't try prying it out unless it's clearly moving. I still wouldn't fall on any gear that's placed in the crack behind it.
By Jeff Kolehmainen
From: Eagan, MN
May 23, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Kris- Agreed, we are talking about the same 3':) I also placed some gear around there, warned the belayer and headed out for the ledge and some good gear. When I lowered off, as I took out that piece I yarded on the block pretty hard (weight =197lbs) and there was not any shifting or movement at all.

But as always, be safe and use good judgement. It is after all a great climb.
By Ryan Justen
From: St. Paul, MN
Jun 18, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I know the guy who pulled that top piece off a few years back that everyone is talking about. From the sounds of it, his belayer did some sort of matrix move to escape the jaws of death... no joke!
By Kris Gorny
Jun 19, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

The chunk is still there. Looking at it (with its sharp edges) it has always been difficult to imagine nobody got hurt!
By Ryan Justen
From: St. Paul, MN
Jun 21, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Solid climb with A LOT of solid cam placements.

I just lead with:
-doubles from BD C4 #.4 through #2
-a single BD C4 #3 (optional)
-a single red BD C3
-a pink tri-cam placed passively at the top of right flake when you cross over.

(leave the nuts and hexes on the ground)

This gear allowed it to be sewed up very tight (a piece every 4-6ft)

The hand crack at the top eases in difficulty

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