Type: Trad
FA: Jim Blakley
Page Views: 7,270 total · 33/month
Shared By: Darin Limvere on May 22, 2006
Admins: K Ice, Kris Gorny

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is the classic trad climb at Red Wing. In previous years people have attempted to turn this crack into a sport climb. It has been bolted, chopped, re-bolted and chopped many times. The original route (5.11a) takes the right hand crack and traverses left onto an obvious ledge about 15ft off the deck. There are possibilities for high gear placements to protect the traverse. The left variation starts below the ledge and goes straight up. Only one piece of gear protects the move onto the ledge. Follow the crack up left to a good rest. The crux gear is in solid rock and it is possible to get in 2 to 3 pieces to protect it. Keep hauling up the crack until you're under a large flake. Pull over the flake/bulge onto the face and clip the chains. Some loose rock sits behind the flake and could cause problems with clipping the chains if grabbed. Beware. Hard onsight. Located at the far right side of the Winter Wall.

Protection Suggest change

Original route- full set of wires, small cams, hexes #6-#10, or medium cams #.75-#3 (doubles or triples on #.75) a couple long runners

Left variation- full set of wires, small cams, hexes #7-#10, or medium cams #1-#3, a couple long runners

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