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Barnacles & Bo Schwan
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in North Carolina Wall
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Apricot Butter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Apricot Jam T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Barnacles & Bo Schwan T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Bed-wetter T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bumblebee Butress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corner, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Eureka T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fire On The Mountain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Highway to the Danger Zone (aka Rinky Dink Direct) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Horse Shoes & Hand Grenades T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Life is like a rubber rope T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lost In Time T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mixed Fruit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pansy Wall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Rinky Dink T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Southeast arete (of the Camel) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Spectre Man T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tarantula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Tightrope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Ryan Parker, Rachel Taylor |
| Page Views: | 1,343 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Parker on Aug 14, 2012 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
The yearly seasonal raptor closure has been lifted as of late June 2020.
Description
Protection for the first three pitches is scarce so keep your eyes open for placements, it's not uncommon to go 30' between placements. And if you can't find the holds, scrape away the lichen that covers most of this climb.
P1: Start with some nice 5.5 face climbing for approximately 80 feet to a small vegetated ledge for the belay.
P2: From the small ledge the climbing here is 5.6 face climbing for about 90' feet. The belay is another obvious vegetated ledge.
P3: The first 40'-50' of this 5.8 pitch is unprotected and protection remains scarce until with in 20' of the belay ledge. The pitch is approximately 120' feet (I placed 6 pieces, two of which were in the 20' just before the belay.)
P4: After both climbers reach the belay after pitch 3 bushwhack for a couple minutes back to the vertical wall, the climbing here is only 5.5 and protection is no longer as hard to find as the first three pitches. Climb until you top out, about 120', and scramble up the last bit of class 3.
Hike out on the MTS trail.
P1: Start with some nice 5.5 face climbing for approximately 80 feet to a small vegetated ledge for the belay.
P2: From the small ledge the climbing here is 5.6 face climbing for about 90' feet. The belay is another obvious vegetated ledge.
P3: The first 40'-50' of this 5.8 pitch is unprotected and protection remains scarce until with in 20' of the belay ledge. The pitch is approximately 120' feet (I placed 6 pieces, two of which were in the 20' just before the belay.)
P4: After both climbers reach the belay after pitch 3 bushwhack for a couple minutes back to the vertical wall, the climbing here is only 5.5 and protection is no longer as hard to find as the first three pitches. Climb until you top out, about 120', and scramble up the last bit of class 3.
Hike out on the MTS trail.
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