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Barnacle Bill 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
Page Views: 876
Submitted By: nhclimber on Sep 25, 2009

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The painfully obvious crack. Start with your hands on a shelf with a heel hook by your hands and prepare for judgement day. Jam, crimp, thrutch, grovel your way across the left slanting crack till you can stand up into underclings and bring your feet up. Then finish up the far left arete. The book gives this V3, I think that it is much harder and never gets too much easier.


To the right and around the corner from lobster tail.



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By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Dec 5, 2009
rating: V4+ 6B+

Barnacle Bill goes up the easy arete at the end of the crack, Charley Horse V5 is the variation that goes up the blank slab that why it feels so much harder... the blank slab is much tougher than v3 :)
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Dec 5, 2009

Are you sure? I have always thought that the crack to the arete is barnacle bill. Start in the cave move left along the crack till you can stand up and work up the arete. The variation moves up right from the start of BB and finishes on the right hand arete. Maybe v5
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Dec 5, 2009
rating: V4+ 6B+

That could be possible too I may have misread kemple's guide... will look into it
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Dec 6, 2009
rating: V4+ 6B+

I looked it up looks like I misread sorry about the confusion :)
By burlap submariner
Dec 4, 2011

most def v4 and for sure barnacle bill. excellent and varied problem, I get on it every time i boulder natural.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 6, 2012

Just sent this rig for the first time the other day. Amongst my proudest boulder sends. Didn't feel as hard as it has. great problem. straight up variation from the big jug to the arete overhead isn't v5 either. v3? or easier
By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
Nov 18, 2012
rating: V4 6B

Ok it makes zero sense to me that Hobbit Hole gets a hundred attempts every weekend and this climb sits around with nobody getting on it. Too much thrutching for the general populous? I had a blast on this thing although it was an ugly affair - see for yourself (@~2:17):

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Dec 27, 2012

Eric, I think you look strong on it. Looks like you hardly jam it, only way this rig goes for me!
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 14, 2013
rating: V4 6B


I think you pretty much summed up why people don't like this (myself included). Thrutchy, awkward climbing with not much flow to it. But, to each their own!

@nhclimber- I'm a bit confused about the 'straight up' variation. Does it go straight up from the starting holds or does it traverse to the left for a bit first? Going straight up from a sit off the starting holds seems pretty hard to me, unless I'm missing something.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 17, 2013

Hmmmm, i believe from the starting holds. Move up on thin holds till you can turn the arete. I have limited memory of the problem. No flow on BB! What! Just feels stout. Course it took me 10 years to send...
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 20, 2013
rating: V4 6B

After doing a little more research, here is a description of all the variations:

-'Barnacle Bill' goes out to the left arete and up
-'Charley Horse' starts the same as 'Barnacle Bill' and moves left until reaching the good jug in the crack. From there, head straight up the slab on slopey knobs without using either arete
-Another problem called 'Ricochet' starts the same as 'Barnacle Bill', moves left for a couple of moves (basically two holds from the start) and then out right to the sloper on the arete. From there, follow the arete.

Hope that clarifies things for everyone!
By Graham O.
Aug 12, 2016
rating: V3+ 6A+

Meh. You're basically belly flopping on the rock for half the climb (the other half being a squeeze between the rock and the tree). It has a cool two finger pocket and a peculiar double jug, but for the most part it, but for the most part, the holds are painful jams. Probably worthy of 1/2 a star (but not a bomb) so I'll be generous and round up.

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