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Barley Route 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Matt Barley, Andrew Christiansen April 2002
Page Views: 622
Submitted By: nick.laws on Apr 30, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Stemming part of the climb.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This route has not seen much traffic, most likely because the guide book gives little information and says that it has a one-bolt anchor (looks like it from the ground but there are two bolts). With some more traffic this route will clean up nicely (except perhaps the big ledges near the end - lots of bird poop).

I really enjoyed the variety that it offered: hand jams, stemming, offwidth (or lie-back), little chimney (with 5" crack in the back) then some fun ridge moves to finish. Stellar.

A 70m rope will get you back to the ledge ~10 feet off the ground. Easy down climb.


This route is right of the leaning pillar located where the approach trail meets the wall. Look for the twin crack start above a few feet of ledgy, easy climbing. The right crack arches to the left to meet the anchors. Climb the left crack once they diverge.


The first half takes a few BD 2's & 3's with one smaller piece in the start. From the good ledge the crack behind the flake starts 3" and quickly goes 4" and then 5". There is a two bolt anchor at the top.

Photos of Barley Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just before the sort of mantle move where a lot of...
BETA PHOTO: Just before the sort of mantle move where a lot of...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the wide section on Barley Route
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the wide section on Barley Route

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By the professor
Jul 25, 2013

FA by Matt Barley and Andrew Christiansen in April 2002
By Shane Martin Smith
From: Pagosa Springs, CO
Oct 31, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

MY THOUGHTS: This route was very fun with a great variation of climbing. Stemming and light jamming in the start with good rests and then a sort of mantle move up on to a ledge just before the OW starts.

CONDITION: As of Oct/30/2016 there is a good bit of piled up rock a little less than half way up the route. I accidentally knocked out a few blocks and tossed out a few spooky pieces but there is definitely still some left. I'd highly recommend your belayer wheres a helmet.

Also, the guano was pretty bad on the ledge before the OW and after the OW. It's secure up top, so wiping it off and working around it wasn't horrible but pulling up on to the first ledge and trying to work through the guano was kinda lame but if this awesome route keeps getting traffic, all will be well.

GEAR: I took all New BD, 1x .75 / 1x #1 / 3x #2's / 3x #3's / 2x #4's / 2x #5's
(Take an extra .75 or maybe #1 & a long sling for the top section after the OW to the anchors) I had no gear left after the OW and probably had a 15' run out to the chains and with all the guano is made me a bit nervous of slipping although the climbing is 5.8

Anchors looked great and 70M is a must and will get you to the ledge just before the ground with an easy down climb.

This route was excellent! Lot's of good rests with a great variation of climbing.

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