|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 120'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Matt Barley, Andrew Christiansen April 2002|
|Submitted By:||nick.laws on Apr 30, 2012|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Barley Route||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By the professor
Jul 25, 2013
|FA by Matt Barley and Andrew Christiansen in April 2002|
By Shane Martin Smith
From: Pagosa Springs, CO
Oct 31, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
MY THOUGHTS: This route was very fun with a great variation of climbing. Stemming and light jamming in the start with good rests and then a sort of mantle move up on to a ledge just before the OW starts.
CONDITION: As of Oct/30/2016 there is a good bit of piled up rock a little less than half way up the route. I accidentally knocked out a few blocks and tossed out a few spooky pieces but there is definitely still some left. I'd highly recommend your belayer wheres a helmet.
Also, the guano was pretty bad on the ledge before the OW and after the OW. It's secure up top, so wiping it off and working around it wasn't horrible but pulling up on to the first ledge and trying to work through the guano was kinda lame but if this awesome route keeps getting traffic, all will be well.
GEAR: I took all New BD, 1x .75 / 1x #1 / 3x #2's / 3x #3's / 2x #4's / 2x #5's
(Take an extra .75 or maybe #1 & a long sling for the top section after the OW to the anchors) I had no gear left after the OW and probably had a 15' run out to the chains and with all the guano is made me a bit nervous of slipping although the climbing is 5.8
Anchors looked great and 70M is a must and will get you to the ledge just before the ground with an easy down climb.
This route was excellent! Lot's of good rests with a great variation of climbing.