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Barking Spiders 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ted Hammond 4/88
Page Views: 1,685
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 19, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: A- Air and Pleasant Danger 5.8 B- Short Wave 5.11b...

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>


This is a fantastic technical route with a nice tricky crux right before the chains but plan to work the whole time...

Start by stemming your way up the nice right facing corner to a sub-crux that when you make it through will get you the reward of a restful stay on a no hand stance... Another stem section heading up and left will put you in the business, a traverse left to gain the anchor... Just hope you have a little energy left in reserve to get you there...


There are 2 similar looking right facing corners on this wall this route starts in the left one... If you need more info here it is also the third route from the left end of the cliff...


7 bolts to quick clip anchors...

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By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 25, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great description, Lee. This route is definitely "technical," "stemmy," and "tricky." The final six-foot-long traverse is the hardest part by far (lousy rounded handholds, no feet). What I like best about the climb is that it's not a pumpathon (like its neighbor, Salley's Alley, my nemesis). Barking Spiders is a great route for weak, old climbers!
By Ian Grant
From: Cambridge
May 1, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Rumor has it that a nursing home resident escaped and onsighted this route last summer. Also heard that his super-attractive son fell all over it. This route will feel hard if you're used to Rumney jugs. A little bit of wisdom goes a long way.

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