Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Barber Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete., The T 
Big Deal Rock Climb T 
Black Crack T 
Black Lung T 
Book of Solemnibeast (variation of Book of Solemnity) T 
Book of Solemnity, The T 
Chicken Delight T 
Double Vee T 
Dresden T 
Final Gesture T 
Hatful of Hollow T 
Jolt T,S 
Kim Jung Il T 
Layton's Ascent T 
Lichen Delight T 
Lichen It a Lot T 
Medusa T 
Nomad Crack T 
Nutcracker T 
Off the Hook T,S 
Perseus  T,S 
Reconciliation T 
Retaliation T 
Upper Refuse T 
Webster's Unabridged T 
Youth Challenge T 

Barber Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.0622, -71.16582 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 35,037
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007
Forecast:
Today

35° | 26°
Sunday

31° | 18°
Monday

32° | 23°
Tuesday

35° | 24°
Wednesday

34° | 27°
Thursday

36° | 24°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Henry Barber on Nutcracker, 2001.

Description 

The Barber Wall is the upper left wall of Cathedral Ledge, so named for Henry Barber and his extensive collection of first free accents on this section of the cliff. Barber was involved in the freeing of every crack from Nutcracker rightwards to Lichen Delight. All of these are classics and none are light in the grade.

This wall is one the best places to practice crack climbing if you plan to get on the longer more committing crack climbs on the cliff. The skills you learn on these 60 to nearly 200 foot climbs (the cliff gets taller as you head to the right toward Retaliation) can even be well applied to walls like Cannon Cliff or even the big walls of Yosemite. Locals often meet here for after work sessions in the evening so it is possible to meet partners here for some cragging.

Though this area is known for its cracks there are a number of desperate “sport” routes and mixed (bolt/trad) climbs. In the winter, ice covers much of the cliff making for grate steep ice climbing.

Getting There 

To get there, climb any route on the lower left wall. Or from the top hike south along the edge of the cliff meeting a trail that wraps around to the midway ledge splitting the Lower Left and Barber Wall. You will see nutcracker first as you hike along the ledge and the routes just keep on coming till you reach the upper half of the Prow area at Upper Refuse and the Book of Solemnity. You can also find the top of Double Vee and rap in.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.9 miles from here

26 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',8],['5.11',5],['5.12',6],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Barber Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Barber Wall:
Upper Refuse   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Final Gesture   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Black Lung   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Retaliation   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Layton's Ascent   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 80'   
Chicken Delight   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 75'   
Double Vee   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad   
The Book of Solemnity   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Nutcracker   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Nomad Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad   
Black Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 150'   
Youth Challenge   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 160'   
Lichen It a Lot   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Webster's Unabridged   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad   
Lichen Delight   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Dresden   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 75'   
The Arete.   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 165'   
Off the Hook   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Jolt   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Barber Wall

Featured Route For Barber Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul Ross on the first ascent.1978

The Arete. 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  NH : *Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall
A very committing lead up the spectacular knife edge just to the left of Black Crack and Upper Refuse. Due to the run outs on this climb it is not popular with modern climbers and is rarely led.It was the hardest lead on the Barber wall in the 1970's however it was by Ed Webster.P1)Stay on the edge of the arete, laybacking some flakes, then a hard move to a small overhang. Follow thin cracks to a bolt and stance. Face climb straight up (5.11b R) to a ledge. Then follow incipient cracks (5.9R) to...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Barber Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Greg Jackson on the great 'Nut Cracker', Barber Wa...
Greg Jackson on the great 'Nut Cracker', Barber Wa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Derrr is this the Barber wall ?
Derrr is this the Barber wall ?
Rock Climbing Photo: Henry Barber racking up, 2001, during filming of U...
Henry Barber racking up, 2001, during filming of U...
Rock Climbing Photo:  Alpha Corner ? Pic 1973?
Alpha Corner ? Pic 1973?
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex on the clissic Black Lung 5.8...
Alex on the clissic Black Lung 5.8...

Comments on Barber Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Russ Keane
Sep 22, 2015
This wall is absolutely beautiful. It's got this black, dark, steep vibe... and is quite secluded by Cathedral standards..... You can rap down and then there's this great giant flat ledge beneath the climbs

So many great NH cracks and pods (and a little of my finger blood)