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Barber Shop Cafe 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 822
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Apr 24, 2007

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Pulling the roof moves. This route is a lot of fun...

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A nice line passing an early roof on the left another roof on the right. The rock at the bottom is a pale grey, and quite smooth. The crux is pulling around the first roof using finger jams and tenuous smearing. The rest of the route is straightforward up the hand crack, with great jams, and plenty of face holds. Rock quality degrades the higher you get up


The far west side of the crag. The start is easily identified by the huge roof above the pale-gray rock (the gray rock contrasts to the typical rust-colored rock here). The hand-crack is a straight shot all the way to the anchors.


Hand sized cams are best, and will fit almost anywhere above the second roof. Some smaller stuff is good for lower down, and other-sized gear will fit as well, but may take more effort to place.

Photos of Barber Shop Cafe Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper portion of the route, with a climber (Michae...
BETA PHOTO: Upper portion of the route, with a climber (Michae...
Rock Climbing Photo: Charlie Cundiff below the second roof.
Charlie Cundiff below the second roof.

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By Jorge Achata
From: Lima, Peru
Nov 10, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I tried a start variation following the grey slab left of the first roof. It's cruxy as it is pulling the first roof. The slab crux can be protected with very small stoppers or micro wires.

Great jams on a clean crack, good placements and fun moves on a long line. A classic, in my humble opinion.

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